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Scale Model Scenery Kit Build Guides: LX007-OO ( Also N & 1:72 Scale) Laser Cut Chain Link Security Fencing (Crank Top Version)

Scale Model Scenery Kit Build Guides

LX007-OO / LX007-N / LX007-1:72

Laser Cut Chain Link Security Fencing


For this Scale Model Scenery Kits Build Guide we take a look at our very popular Laser Cut Chain Link Security Fencing. This kit comes in two versions, the Straight Top Post & the Crank Top Post. Our LX007 laser cut chain link fencing kits have the following key features:

Key Features:

    • Fence posts Laser Cut from high quality 1.5mm plywood – You only need a knife to gently release the parts from the sheet… all cutting is done for you!
    • Full instructions included.
    • Posts require painting.
    • Scale accuracy – We use a 0.1mm ceramic laser for very tight tolerances & accurate scaling from real life 1:1 prototypes.
    • Perfect for any OO / 1:76 / 4mm model railway layout or diorama.
    • Compatible with all makes of OO gauge model railway.
    • Supplied with easy to follow instructions, in a cellophane packet..
    • Builds just over 1 metre of fencing plus 2 small gates and 2 large gates.
    • Enough fine mesh & fishing line included to build just over 1 metre of fencing.
    • Fencing Dimensions: Crank-top: Height: 32mm  Straight Posts: 28mm
    • Gate Dimensions:  Small gates: H: 31mm x W: 15mm x D:1.5mm
    • Large Gates (each gate): H: 31mm x W: 28mm x D:1.5mm

The kit comes supplied with one sheet of laser-cut fence posts & gates, wire for the fence top (Crank Top Version) & the fence mesh material. This kit is an ideal kit for a couple of evenings or weekend modelling sessions.

This fencing is typically found all over the UK & beyond, used on locations such as schools, car parks, factories, military installations, airfields & airports, lineside etc. We’ll now take a look at the assemble of this kit. We’ll be building the crank top OO/1:76 scale version for this builds guide article. For the straight top version of the LX007 please visit the build guide for that here:


Tools needed:

  • Cutting Mat
  • Craft knife with a sharp blade,
  • Deluxe Materials Super Phatic Glue or fast setting super glue such as Mitre Fast.
  • Sanding stick
  • Steel ruler for marking cutting against
  • Tweezers
  • Masking or parcel tape
  • Scissors
  • Pen or pencil
  • (Optional suitable concrete colour acrylic paint)

Kit Contents

The kit comes in a clear packet complete with instructions, one laser cut parts sheet, an Instruction sheet, mesh material & wire. As shown in the two photos right & below.


Let’s get started…

Whilst the posts are still on the parts sheet, the posts need painting first. Apply a thin coat of primer spray can paint. Here we’re using a grey aerosol can of grey primer paint from PlastiKote. Be careful not to fill the small laser engraved wire holes on the top of the fence post. Once the primer paint has dried, paint in a suitable colour using acrylic paint. Here we’re showing two suitable colours. One is a concrete topcoat paint from Woodland Scenics, the other is by Humbrol, a light grey colour. We’ve opted for the Humbrol light grey colour for this building project. 

The posts were then given two thin coats of Humbrol light grey acrylic paint, again making sure not to fill the wire holes with paint on the fence post crank tops.


The area we’re fitting & installing the fence is along the edge of what we’re using as part of a lorry/truck stop parking area. Before the ground cover scatter materials are being applied to this part of the baseboard, we’ve marked out guidelines in pencil to align & position the fence posts correctly. Of course, the fence can be fitted/installed after the ground scatter materials have been applied. The choice is yours as to which method is best for you.

In the photo opposite right, you can see the guidelines we’ve marked out for fitting/installing the fence (highlighted by the arrows).


Starting from the corner or end of the fence run, mark out the position location for each of the fence posts. Around the 27mm to 32mm distance apart between the posts is ideal.  


Now drill a suitably sized hole to take the fence post on each of the marked locations. The hole should be a reasonably snug fit to take the fence posts. Once the holes had been drilled, we then applied the scenic scatter to this area of the layout.


Next, apply glue such as Super Phatic, Mitre Fast, PVA Wood Glue etc, to the thinner bottom section of the fence post. As shown in the photo opposite right.


Then carefully insert the glued end of the posts into the holes drilled earlier. Make sure that the posts sit true & vertical in the holes. The crank top part of the post can be set so it points into the property it’s protecting, or so it points away from the property it’s protecting. It’s down to personal choice & what scene you’re modelling as to which way to set the fence post crank tops.


For the corners, glue two angled brace legs as shown in the photo opposite right, to add further strength to the corner fence post. The brace legs should be set so that the end angled ends sit flat upon the sides of the post.


For long fence runs, at say the middle point of the run for example, like the corner fence post, glue two angled brace legs as shown in the photo opposite right, to add further strength to the middle fence post. The brace legs should be set so that the end angled ends sit flat upon the sides of the post.


For the end of the fence runs, gain like the corner fence post, glue one or two angled brace legs as shown in the photo opposite right, to add further strength to the end fence post. The brace legs should be set so that the end angled ends sit flat upon the sides of the post.


With the fence posts glued into position, allow time for the glue to fully cure & set. Whilst the glue is setting, we move our attention to cutting the meshing material to size. The mesh needs to be cut at a height of around 30mm tall. In the photo opposite right, can be seen highlighted in orange the length of & positioning where the fence mesh will sit.


The easiest way to cut the mesh to size is by using the following method. Carefully lay parcel tape or masking tape on the mesh material as shown in the photo right. From the bottom edge of the tape, mark out the height of the fence mesh which is around 30mm. Mark out at various other points along the tape, 30mm from the bottom edge of the tape. Then draw a straight line along the 30mm high markers. As shown in the second photo opposite right. 


Using a steel ruler as a cutting guide, align the ruler with the marker line. Then using a craft knife, carefully cut along the line as straight as possible. Use a new sharp blade to cut the mesh.


Next, carefully peel the tape off the meshing as shown in the photo opposite right. We now have the mesh cut to the right height to fit the fence.


To fit the mesh material, start by applying glue thinly along the side of the post that the mesh will be fitted to. Here we’re using a mitre fast glue for it’s rapid setting time & grab strength. The glue, we’ve applied it on to a flat-bladed screwdriver. Which in turn is being used to carefully apply & spread just the right amount of glue to the fence post in a controlled manner.


The mesh is then stuck onto the glued post in the correct position. With using Mitre fast glue, it comes with an activator which is then sprayed on to the glued area. The glue then sets in around 10 seconds flat, this allows for rapid progress in fitting the meshing to the posts. Make sure as you work along each fence post, that the mesh is at the correct tension between the posts, so it’s not too taught & not too saggy. 


When taking the meshing around the fence corners, make sure that it sits at the correct position along the top & bottom of each fence post, as you go along gluing the meshing. into place.

With the meshing, all glued into place, cut off the excess meshing at the end of the fence run.

Top wires

Now we’re at the point of fitting the top wires. Start by fitting the bottom wire run of the three top wires. Take your time as this may be tricky for those with hard of sight. The wire holes are quite small so tweezers & a magnifying glass may come in handy for seeing & threading the wire through the wire holes. 

At the end of the fence glue the wire to fix & hold it in place. Cut the excess wire at the other end of the fence & again glue to fix & hold the wire in place. Repeat the process with the next two top wire runs.

This Completes the fitting of the fence. For the gates that come with this kit, we’ll cover them in a separate article. 


Happy modelling.

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