Scale Model Scenery Kit Build Guides – KX057-OO Barn / Store – OO/4mm/1:76
Scale Model Scenery Kit Build Guides
Scale Model Scenery Kit Build Guides – KX057-OO Barn / Store – OO/4mm/1:76
In this Scale Model Scenery kit build guide, we take another kit from our range, this time is the KX057-OO Barn/Store for OO/4mm/1:76 scale. The KX057-OO kit is an easy build, timewise allow for an afternoon for more experienced modellers & a day for novice modellers. The kit is typical of a British stone or brick barn/store seen in the countryside, such as in the Yorkshire Dales, Peak District being examples.
The kit has a couple of build options such as brick finish or stone wall finish, an extra solid longwall is also included which gives you a choice of the building having one or two doors. The kit can be built as it is or as Sam, one of our team members has done, built it so it looks derelict. The choice is yours.
We’ll now take a look at what comes in the kit pack & of course, how to assemble this kit.
Tools needed are as follows:
- Cutting Matt
- Craft knife with a new cutting blade
- Roket Card glue or Super Phatic glue or Laser Cut Kit Glue by Deluxe Materials
- Steel ruler or straight edge to cut against
- Sanding stick (Cosmetic nail sanding stick will do)
- Our SX002 Corner Jig Tool
The Kit Contents
The kit comes supplied as many of our kits do, in a clear plastic wallet. The kit comes supplied with instructions & several laser-cut part sheets. The photos right & below show the kit contents.
The Kit Assembly
As with all kits, take your time to read through the instructions to familiarise yourself with the kit parts, kit contents map. Start by cutting free from the parts sheet one, the barn walls. Use a craft knife with a new sharp blade. There is an optional solid wall which is included to give you an optional build alternative if you so wish. We’ll be using the parts marked with an orange X & building the kit with front & rear doors.
With the parts removed from the parts sheet one, lightly sand flush any pips on the part edges, as highlighted in the photo opposite right. We’ve highlighted the pips in orange circles.
Next, take one of the end walls & in our case the wall with the small doorway. Apply a small amount of glue in each recess of both pieces, then fit together as shown in the photo opposite right to form an L shape. Viewing from the inside of the L shape, the doorway needs to go to the left-hand side. Apply an extra bead of glue up the inside of the joint as shown in the photo right.
A tip here is to use our SX002 jig tool to aid the alignment of both pieces.
Next, take the other the end wall. Apply a small amount of glue in each recess of both pieces, then fit together as shown in the photo opposite right to form a U shape. Apply an extra bead of glue up the inside of the joint as shown in the photo right.
Now, take the front wall with the large door opening, make sure the laser engraved markings on it are facing outwards. Apply a small amount of glue to each end recess, & fit it into the building to create the four wall sides. For extra strength apply a thin bead of glue on the inside of the two corner joints, as shown in the photo opposite right.
Next, we move on to apply the wrap layers. Choose which wrap finish you want from the two supplied wrap sheets. We’re going with the stone wall finish. Start by cutting out the two end wall sections.
Use a steel ruler as a straight edge to cut against. Make sure the craft knife has a sharp blade, don’t use a blade that is blunt as this will likely tear the wrap.
With the two end wall wraps cut out, the next job is to mark the end flaps for making the score & fold lines.
Hold up the wrap to a window with the non-printed side facing you. with the wrap held up to the window, the light will show the printed side up through the non-printed side. Using a pen or pencil, mark out the ends of the fold flaps. We’ve highlighted the markers we’ve drawn in pen, in the orange circles for you.
Using the rear blunt edge of the craft knife, carefully score a fold line between the marker lines. We highlighted the score fold lines for you with the broken orange lines.
Using a glue stick like Pritt Stick or similar, apply an even thin layer of glue to the non-printed side of the end wall wrap.
Stick the end wall wrap on to the outside the end wall of the building as shown in the photo opposite right. The flaps will stand above the building sides, as seen in the photo opposite right.
Now stick down the two long side wall flaps as shown in the photo opposite right.
Next, stick down the four short apex top wall flaps as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure the wraps don’t foul the five little recess slots.
Now cut out the front & rear long wall wraps (the ones with the doorway recesses).
The two black angled lines highlighted in the photo opposite right also need cutting. These will create three glue flaps.
Here you can see one of the front/rear walls wraps cut out & the glue flaps have been cut.
On the non-printed side of the two wall wraps, mark, score the highlighted fold lines as shown & highlighted in the photo opposite right.
Using a glue stick, apply a thin even layer of glue to the rear non-printed side of the wall wraps, & stick them into place on the wall ends. Make sure the wrap ends both left & right are square, true & flush with the wall ends.
Now, proceed to fold & stick down the flaps in the doorway & along the wall tops. As shown in the photo opposite right.
Next, cut out the wrap for the rear outside wall. As we’re using the rear wall base layer with a small door way, we’re cutting out & using the matching stone wall wrap.
Now, cut two diagonal cuts highlighted in green in the photo opposite right. This will give three glue flaps. Then proceed to score the three fold lines, highlighted in orange, as shown in the photo opposite right.
Like the other front wall wrap, apply glue to the rear non-printed side using a glue stick. Then making sure all sides of the wrap align with the wall edges, stick into place on the rear wall as shown in the photo opposite right. As before, fold & stick down the glue flaps in the doorway & wall tops.
For detailing the inside, if leaving the main large door open, cut out one of the large stone walls wraps from the wrap texture sheet.
Insert the interior wall wrap inside the building, making sure the interior wall wrap sits squarely in all four corners of the building. Mark out the doorways & the top wall slots as highlighted in orange in the photo opposite right.
Next cut out the doorways & the top wall slots. The top wall cut slots we’ve highlighted in green in the photo opposite right.
Using a glue stick, apply glue to the non-printed side of the wrap, then stick the wrap into place inside the building.
Cut & release the eight roof apex frames from the parts sheet. Carefully lightly sand back flush any pips on the apex part edges.
Take one apex roof frame & glue it into place next to the end wall as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure that the three slots on the roof apex frame align up with the three slots on the end wall, as highlighted in the photo opposite right.
Work your way along with the building, carefully gluing & fixing into place each roof apex frame. Make sure each roof apex frame is sitting vertically. A tip here to make sure that all the slots align on the roof apex frames, use a straight edge that will sit within the slots of the roof apex frames such as a steel ruler for example shown here in the photo opposite right.
With the roof apex frames all in place, allow time for the glue to fully set before moving on to the next stage. The photo opposite right shows the apex frames whilst the glue is setting.
Now cut & release the three long roof rafters from the parts sheet, as highlighted in the orange box in the photo opposite right.
Carefully glue & a fix each of the three roof battens into place as shown in the two photos below. Make sure the battens sit flush within the slots on the roof trusses.
With the roof trusses in place, we now move on to tiling the roof. Here we can do the roof pristine or partly damaged as with broken or missing tiles. Cut & release the roof tile strips from the parts sheet.
The roof tile strips will be positioned so they half overlap the preceding row of tiles & the end of each row is staggered.
Cut the first row of tiles to length & glue into place starting at the lower edge of the building, as shown in the photo opposite right.
The next row cut it to length but make sure that it starts & ends with a half tile. Glue into place. The third row is cut to length & starts & finishes with a full tile at either end. The fourth row starts & finishes with a half tile, as shown in the photo opposite right. Continue adding more rows of tiles until the roof is covered.
For the roof ridge, cut & remove the roof ridge tile strips, score, fold cut then glue into place on the roof ridge. In the photo opposite right you’ll notice we’ve removed some tiles to give this barn roof a worn look with missing or damaged roof tiles.
With the walls & roof on, it’s time to move on to the doors. We recommend you paint the doors beforehand in acrylic colours to suit your preferences. For the purpose of this build guide article, we’re showing the doors fitted unpainted.
Cut & remove the small rear door & door frame from the parts sheet.
Lightly sand any pips flush from the part edges. Glue the door frame onto the laser engraved side of the door.
Make sure that the door frame sits true flush & square upon the door. As shown in the photo opposite right.
For the large doorway, cut & remove the large door frame (highlighted in the photo opposite right). Lightly sand flush any pips on the part sides.
Apply glue to the rear side of the door frame & stick into place as shown in the photo opposite right. On the texture wrap is a faint weathered guideline that will help you align the door frame correctly.
Cut & remove one of the longer brace pieces from the parts sheet, & glue into place as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure it sits square on the door frame.
Cut & remove one of the short brace pieces from the parts sheet, & glue into place at the end of the door frame as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure it sits square on the door frame.
Next cut & remove the large door from the parts sheet, & also the top door bar & two of the runner wheels. Again lightly sand flush any pips on the part edges.
Glue the bar section on to the top of the door, as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure the bar section sits flush with the top edge of the door.
Now glue the door into position s it’s top edge sits flush against the underside of the top door frame. Here we’ve glued the door in a half-opened position.
Glue the two small runner wheels into position on top of the door frame, as highlighted in the photo opposite right.
Cut & remove two of the long brace pieces from the parts sheet. Glue & stick on to the door at either end with the top part of the brace sitting over the small runner wheel, as highlighted in the photo opposite right.
Some extra details
To finish off we’ll add two small extra details in the form of door handles. For the larger door, cut & remove one of the spare small brace pieces & glue into a suitable position on the large sliding door to act as a door handle.
For the small rear door, cut & remove one of the small runner wheels from the parts sheet. Glue & fix into a suitable position on the small rear door.
This completes the build & assembly of this kit.