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Scale Model Scenery Kit Build Guides – KX029-OO Lock-Up Garages (Block Of Six) OO/4mm/1:76 Scale

Scale Model Scenery Kit Build Guides

KX029-OO Lock-Up Garages (Block Of Six) OO/4mm/1:76

In this Scale Model Scenery kit build guide, we take another popular kit from our range, this time is the KX029-OO Lock-Up Garages for OO/4mm/1:76 scale. This kit is designed to take six small types of 1:76 scale Oxford Diecast (or similar) cars. The kit is based & modelled on a lock garage block near to our former Leicestershire HQ (we’ve now relocated to our new HQ premises in Cornwall). Lock up garage blocks are seen all over the UK & suitable for any layout set in the 1960s right up to the current day. 

The kit features interior detailing such as dirty concrete, tyre marks, oil stains, and spilled paint. Sturdy layered card construction with high-resolution paper texture wraps are used to produce a very realistic model for your OO scale model railway layout or 1:76 diecast diorama, with no visible cut card edges once complete. The kit will take around one afternoon timewise to build. We’ll now take a look a the assembly of this kit.

Tools Needed

Tools needed are as follows:

  • Cutting  Matt
  • Craft knife with a new cutting blade
  • Roket card glue & also a glue stick such as Pritt Stick or similar
  • Steel ruler or straight edge to cut against
  • Sanding stick (Cosmetic nail sanding stick will do)

 

The Kit Contents

The kit comes supplied as many of our kits do, in a clear plastic wallet. The kit comes supplied with instructions, photo-realistic texture wrap sheets & laser cut part sheets. The photos right & below show the kit contents.

 

 

Let’s get started…

We’ll start by removing the highlighted part A’s from the parts sheet shown in the photo right, these being the garage front wall base layers. Carefully cut through the pips that hold the part A’s on to the parts sheet with a craft knife. Lightly sand flush any pips on the part A side edges.

 

Apply Deluxe Materials Roket Card glue to the one side on one of the parts A’s as shown in the photo right.

 

Next place the part A, on to the other part A that has been glued, to form a stack of two. Make sure that all edges are square true & flush with each other. Place some weights on top as shown in the photo right to keep the stack of two part A’s level whilst the glue sets.  

 

Now cut & remove parts B & C from the parts sheet. Again, lightly sand flush any pips on the part side edges.

 

Next glue parts B & C together to form a stack of two. Make sure that the side edges & bottom edges are sitting true square & flush with each other. Wall part B (the outer rear wall) is slightly shorter in height than part C (the rear inner wall). This as you’ll see a bit later in this build, is for the locating lip for the rear roof guttering. 

Use the likes of the SX002 Corner Jig Tool to help align both parts flush with each other, as shown in the photo right.

The SX002 Corner Jig Tool can be found here:

https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/sx002-card-kit-assembly-jig-90-degrees-1869-p.asp

 

Now cut & remove the front wall texture wrap part A, from the texture wrap sheet.

 

After cutting out part A front wall texture wrap, the fold flaps now need to be cut. As highlighted by the orange cut lines in the photo right, on the actual texture wrap, they are printed in black. Cut along each of the black cut lines.

 

Using the glue stick (Pritt Stick or similar) this time, apply glue to one side of the front wall (Part A) base layer. Then carefully position & stick into place on the rear non printed side of the front wall texture wrap Part A. It should be positioned as shown in the photo right. 

Also in the photo right, we’ve highlighted the fold flap cuts which we mentioned in the section above.  

 

Using the rear blunt edge of the craft knife ( or an old ballpoint pen ) score a fold line along the edge of the base layer as shown in the photo right. Be careful not to accidentally cut through the wrap whilst scoring the fold lines.

 

 

Next glue & fold down the glue flaps as shown in the photo right.

 

 

Cut out texture wrap part L the front wall backing form the texture wrap sheet.

 

 

Apply glue to the rear of part L & stick into place on the non wrapped side of the front garage wall as shown in the photo right.

 

 

Next cut out from the texture wrap layer sheet, texture wrap parts B & C  which are the rear wall outer & inner wall wraps.

 

 

Apply glue using the glue stick to the non-printed side of wrap B (the shorter height rear inner wall with the vertical twin line markings). The stick wrap B into place on to the rear wall baselayer marked B. Make sure all edges are true, flush & level.

 

 

Apply glue using the glue stick to the non-printed side of wrap C (the taller height rear outer wall). The stick wrap C into place on to the rear wall baselayer marked C. Make sure all edges are true, flush & level.

 

 

The rear wall should now look like as shown in the photo right. Highlighted in the orange circle, it shows the height difference between the two sides of the rear wall.  

 

 

We now move on to the side walls. We’ll start with cutting out texture wrap parts E1 & E2 which are the end sidewalls inner sides. Also, cut out the two laser-cut base layers marked as ‘E’ from the laser-cut base layer parts sheet.

 

 

Apply glue to the rear non-printed side of texture wrap E1 using a glue stick. Then stick on to base layer E. Make sure the end of the wrap with the black strip overhangs the end of the wall. This will form the drain pipe. 

Repeat the process by gluing the rear non-printed side of the other texture wrap E1 using a glue stick. Then stick that glued wrap on to the other base layer part E. Make sure the end of the wrap with the black strip overhangs the end of the wall. This will form the drain pipe. 

 

 

With the overhang, as before, score along the edge of the base layer where it meets the texture wrap, with the rear blunt edge of the craft knife. Don’t cut through the wrap!

 

 

Next glue & fold the overhang around the end of both parts E’s as shown in the photo right.

 

 

Next cut texture wrap layers D1 & D2 out from the sheet of texture wraps. These are the end walls outer sides. Also cut & remove from the laser cut parts sheet, the two base layers marked D. 

 

 

Place the base layer part D on to one of the texture wrap parts D1 or D2. Make sure the top & bottom edges of the base layer line up with texture wrap top & bottom edges. Then mark on the texture wrap layer the edge of the base layer.

 

 

The alternative method for marking out the fold line lines: On the texture wrap parts D1 & D2, hold the texture wrap D1 & D2 up to the light such as in front of a window. You’ll be able to see the printed side appear on the non-printed side. On the non-printed side, mark in pen or pencil the two vertical lines, we’ve highlighted them in orange for you in the photo right. 

 

 

Apply glue using a glue stick to the rear non printed side of the texture wrap parts D1 & D2. Stick them on to base layer part D as shown in the photo right.

As before, lightly score the fold lines & then glue & stick down overhang around the ends of base layers D1 & D2. As shown in the second photo right.

 

 

With parts E & D the end side walls now wrapped, we’ll now glue both parts together to form two end sidewalls as we’ll now show.

 

 

Apply glue using Roket Card glue to the non wrapped side of part E. As shown in the photo right.

 

 

Next, take one of part D’s & stick it on to the glued part E. Make sure that the longer edge & taller end edge are square & flush with each other. There will be an overhang at the smaller end wall. The second photo right shows the overhang. This overhang is will form the vertical down guttering drain pipe.

Repeat the process, so you end up with two walls as shown in the photo right.

 

 

The inner dividing garage walls are next. Cut out from the texture wrap sheet parts G1 & G2. From the laser-cut baselayer, cut out parts G. 

 

 

Like the end sidewalls, glue (using a glue stick or Pritt Stick) apply glue to the rear non-printed side of the texture wrap part G’s. One texture wrap per laser cut base layer. Make sure all edges are true flush & square.

Next, using Roket card glue, glue the wrapped base layers together to create five internal walls. Make sure that all edges are true square & flush with each other. The third photo right shows the five internal walls ready for fitting.

 

 

 

The garage floor/base is next. Cut & remove texture wrap layer part L from the texture wrap parts sheet. Also, cut out from the laser cut base layer parts sheet, part L

 

 

 

Using the glue stick or Pritt Stick, apply glue to the non-printed side of the floor texture wrap. Place the laser cut floor base layer centrally on the glued floor wrap.

Lightly score the four edge fold flaps & glue & fold the edge wraps around the edges & on to the floor/base underside. As shown in the second photo right.

 

 

 

The roof ceiling. Cut out from the laser cut base layer sheet, part J. From the texture sheet parts, cut out texture wrap part J.

Using the glue stick or Pritt Stick, apply glue to the rear non printed side of the texture wrap part J. Then sick it down on to laser cut base layer part J. Make sure all sides are square true & flush.

Place some weights on to the glued & wrapped baselayer whilst the glue sets. This stops the piece from trying to curve as the glue sets. 

 

 

 

The roof. Cut out from the laser cut base layer sheet, two part F’s. From the texture sheet parts, cut out texture wrap part F.

Using Roket Card Glue, glue & stick the two part F’s into a stack of two. Make sure that all edges are true square & flush.

Using the glue stick or Pritt Stick, apply glue to the rear non printed side of the texture wrap part J. Then sick it down centrally on to laser cut base layer part F.

 

 

 

 

Lightly score the wrap along each edge of the base layer where the wrap meets the base layer.

Apply glue to each flap, fold and stick down as shown in the photo right.

 

 

 

 

Using Rocket Card Glue, apply it to the rear non wrapped side of the ceiling. Then stick the ceiling on to the non wrapped side of the roof. Make sure the ceiling sits centrally on the roof section as shown in the photo right. 

Once glued & stuck together, place the roof face down (so that the ceiling is facing upwards) on a flat surface. Then place some weights on it to help keep it flat whilst the glue sets.  

 

 

 

 

The next part to assemble is the rear gutting. Cut & remove from the texture wraps sheet is part K & also from the laser cut parts sheet, part K. As shown in the photo opposite right. 

Apply glue using a glue stick or Pritt Stick to the rear non printed side of the texture wrap part K. Then place laser cut part K, centrally on to the glue wrap part K. Make sure the end of both parts is sitting flush with each other. Then proceed to wrap base layer with the glued texture wrap. Once the glued wrap has been wrapped & stuck down around the laser cut base layer, allow time for the glue to dry.

Once the glue has set, trim off the remaining grey section from the wrap. The second photo opposite right shows the guttering after been glued & wrapped.  

 

 

 

 

Next, cut out the garage door base layer parts H & texture door wrap parts H.

 

 

 

 

Again using the glue stick or Pritt Stick, glue the rear non printed side of the wrap. Place the garage door base layer centrally on to the lower part of the glued wrap (the end with the glued flaps) as shown in the photo opposite right.

 

 

 

 

Lightly score along the wrap where it meets the base layer. Then glue & stick down the three small glue flaps as shown in the photo right.

 

 

 

 

Now glue & stick down the remaining side of the garage door wrap as shown in the photo right.

 

 

 

 

The assembly of the building

Apply Roket Card Glue to the bottom edge of the front garage wall section. Position the front wall section so that the front wall section is flush with the weathered black line (where the tyre tracks start) & stick down. As shown in the second photo opposite right. Use the jig tools SX002 or similar to hold the front wall section in place whilst the glue sets. As shown in the photo opposite right.

 

 

 

 

Next glue & fix the two end walls into place. These are the ones with the black downpipe at the smallest end. Make sure they butt up behind the front wall as shown & highlighted in the photo opposite right. The end walls have a light switch detail on one of them, make sure this side goes to the inside of the building, as shown & highlighted in the second photo opposite right.

 

 

 

 

Having installed the two end sidewalls, we now install the inner walls. On the floor are marker lines for positioning the interior walls, highlighted in the photo opposite right. Make sure the interior wall is positioned on these lines & butts up to the rear of the front wall, as shown in the photo opposite right.

 

 

 

 

Repeat gluing & fitting the rest of the interior walls into position as shown in the photo opposite right.

 

 

 

 

Now glue & fit the rear wall into place. As shown & highlighted in the photo opposite right, make sure the recess top lip on the rear wall faces outwards. 

 

 

 

 

Next, apply a bead of Roket Card glue along the recess on the top of the rear wall as shown in the photo opposite right.

 

 

 

 

Now, position & stick the gutter into place on the glued recess as shown in the photo opposite right.

 

 

 

 

Next, is the installation of the garage doors. Apply a thin bead of Roket Card Glue to the bottom, lefthand & righthand sides of the garage door. As highlighted in the photo opposite right.

 

 

 

 

Fit the garage door into the front door opening as shown in the photo opposite right.

 

 

 

 

To add further interest & life to the garage block, glue & fit some of the doors in a fully open & half-open position. As shown in the photos right & below. 

 

 

 

 

The last part of the assembly now is the fitting of the roof. Here you have an option as to either permanently glue the roof into place or leave the roof loose so it can be removed for access into the garage bays. The choice is yours. We’re leaving the roof loose, so we can change & add further details to this model in the future.

 

 

 

 

We’ll finish off with some views of the completed kit. The kit will take 1:76 Scale Oxford Diecast & 1:72 Scale Caramra small to medium-sized cars.

This completes this build guide. Happy modelling.

 

 

 

 

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