Select Page

Scale Model Scenery Kit Build Guides – KX005-OO / KX005-N Country Pub/Victorian Ale House

Scale Model Scenery Kit Build Guides

KX005-OO / KX005-N Country Pub/Alehouse Kit

In this Scale Model Scenery kit build guide, we take a look at another of our signature kits from our range, this time it’s the popular KX005 Country Pub Kit. This kit has been in our both our download & pre-printed kit ranges for a good few years now. Recently the pre-printed OO scale version has been given an upgrade of pre-laser cut & also comes supplied with a sheet of pre-printed clear glazing. The kit is of an actual real pub located in Gwithian in Cornwall, the pub is called the Red River Inn. The photo below shows the real thing & where possible we’ve tried to get the kit as close to the real thing in miniature.

The download version can be found in both OO & N scale in our online model club www.railwaymodellers.com & is available in the club V.I.P members download area. A OO scale pre-printed version which we’ll be looking at in this guide is available over on our main website here:

https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/kx005-oo-country-pubvictorian-ale-house-oo4mm176-328-p.asp  

We’ve also made the supplied glazing sheet that comes with the kit available as a stand-alone sheet for use on scratch building projects  & upgrading other brand kits:

https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/wx007-oo-red–white-sash-windows–doors-oo4mm176-1312-p.asp 

The KX005 kit makes for an ideal weeks modelling project, typical build time is around 3 to 7 days depending on your model building skills. The kit once assembled includes a rear courtyard, side & rear stonewalling, front pavement & tarmac road strip section gated entrance & an additional small building that sits in the rear yard which is used as a small village shop. A sheet of optional other pub signs, signage, drain covers are also included.

The kit can be used with or without the rear courtyard, the choice is yours. The kit could be put to other uses to which a number of our customers have done so, these include a country fire station, Police station, Post office, country house, garage. Here at Scale Model Scenery, we like to see what other uses you put our kits too, so please do keep your photos coming in with your modelling work.

 

Let’s get started…

Tools you’ll need are as follows:

  • SX002 Corner jig tool (available here: https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/sx002-card-kit-assembly-jig-90-degrees-1869-p.asp )
  • Tweezers
  • Roket Card Glue by Deluxe Materials (Or similar)
  • Sanding stick (A cosmetic nail sanding board is ideal & can be found in the likes of your local supermarkets etc)
  • Cutting mat
  • Cloth for wiping away any excess glue
  • Glue stick such as Pritt Stick (or the likes of Wilkos own version, cheaper & just as good)
  • Scissors

The Kit Contents

The KX005-OO kit comes supplied in a clear cellophane packet & contains the instructions, kit parts map sheets to help identify each of the kit parts. The photo-realistic texture wrap sheets, the laser cut base layer greyboard sheets, & also a pre-printed clear window & doors sheet. The photo right & below show the kit contents. 

Let’s get started…

We’ll start with the front & rear walls of the pub, these two parts are on base layer sheet two.

Using a craft knife with a new sharp blade, carefully cut through the pips that hold the wall parts on to sheet two, to release them from the parts sheet.

Lighty sand flush any pips on the parts side so all the part edges are smooth.

Now repeat the process by cutting the window & door blanking pieces free from the wall parts. Lightly sand flush any pips on the window/door opening apertures. 

On parts sheet one, carefully cut & remove the two end walls from the parts sheet.

On parts sheet one, carefully cut & remove the two end walls from the parts sheet.

On parts sheet one, carefully cut & remove the two end walls from the parts sheet.

With the end walls removed, carefully cut & remove the blank window & door opening apertures. Again, any pips lightly sand them flush.

The front & wall section rear photo-realistic textures are the next item to be cut out from the texture sheets.

Cut out the front and rear wall wraps from the sheet taking extra care around the quoins section as shown in the photo right. 

On all the door & window openings, using a craft knife with a steel ruler to act as a straight edge cutting guide, cut along the bottom edge opening ( as shown in the photo right ).

Next, cut along the top of the window/door arch. The best way is to start in the middle/center of the window/door arch & carefully cut freehand following along the top of the arch to the sidewall. As indicated in the photo between the two orange lines in the photo right.

Now, starting at the end of the window/doorway arch, cut along the top of the window/door arch towards the center of the arch. Again carefully cut freehand following along the top of the arch. As indicated in the photo between the two orange lines in the photo right.

Next, cut along the marked center line on the window/door opening. As indicated in the photo between the two orange lines in the photo right. 

With the wall texture sheet turned over, you can clearly see the cut sections for the door & windows. Attention to the doorway section which we’ve highlighted in the orange rectangle. The orange arrow points out the thin strip, this is the bottom of the doorway opening, don’t remove this thin strip!  

Repeat the process with the other long building wall. You should now, have both the front & rear walls windows & door openings cut ready for the next stage.

Next cut out the two main building end walls as shown in the two photos right.

Same as the front & rear walls, carefully cut the top/bottom & centerline of the window openings, as shown in the photo right.

The next job is to cut & remove all the grey flap sections on the window openings, as shown in the photo right.

Now apply glue to the non-printed side of the texture wraps using a glue stick (Pritt Stick or similar). 

Then place the glued texture wrap on to its corresponding base layer as shown in the photo right. Make sure that all edges & window/door openings match & line up.

Turn the wall over. Using the rear blunt edge of the craft knife, lightly score the texture wrap along the edges of the window & door frames.

Next glue the flaps, then fold them through the window/door openings & stick them down on the rear side of the wall sections as shown in the two photos right.

One thing of note is the end wall sections with the quoins, these will stick out beyond the ends of the wall base layers (as indicated by the orange arrows). DO NOT fold & glue them down at this stage!!

The walls should now look something like in the second photo right.

On the various texture wrap sheets are the optional window sill/ledges. Cut out the corresponding ones for each of the windows from the parts sheet.

With the window sills/ledges cut out from the texture wraps sheet, use a dark coloured felt tip pen to colour in the white edges as shown in the photo right.

Run a thin bead of glue along the rear (non-printed) side of the window sill/ledge. Stick into place on the wall so that it aligns up with the printed window sill/ledge. Allow time for the glue to set before moving on to the next stage.

The rest of the window sill/ledge that is sticking up, apply a small amount of Roket Card Glue to the non-printed side of the ledge sill/ledge. Then proceed to fold & stick down the sill/ledge down into the window opening, as shown in the photo right. Repeat the process on all the other wall windows.

With the window sills/ledges in place on the walls, it’s time to move on to the clear glazing. In the kit is provided both clear glazing printed sheet & a printed texture window sheet. We’ll be using both to give added depth to the kit. On the right can be seen the pre-printed clear glazing sheet. 

Cut out the corresponding windows (each is labelled up as to which window is for on the building) as shown in the photo right. 

Run a thin bead of glue around the edge of the clear printed windows (on the same side of as the printed side on the glazing sheet). Then very carefully align the window up with the window opening on the wall, then stick the window glazing into place on the rear side of the wall as shown in the photo right. Take care not to get any glue on the visible part of the glazing.

Now cut out the front & rear doors marked with the orange ‘X”s in the photo right. Note: You have a choice of two front doors, one without window stickers & the other with window stickers. We’ve opted for the one with window stickers.

Now same as the windows, glue & stick the doors into place on the door openings on the walls. The longer wall with the smaller section that sticks out on one side is the front wall. In the photo right, you’ll notice that the door is fixed a couple of millimeters above the bottom edge of the wall (as indicated with the orange arrow & marker lines in the photo right). 

Next, move on to the rear wall, & glue the rear printed clear glazing door on to the rear wall door opening. Again make sure that the door sits a couple of millimeters above the bottom edge of the wall. 

With the clear glazing install on the front, rear & sidewalls, you should now have the wall parts looking the same as shown in the photo right.

On the texture wrap sheets, you’ll see one that contains the printed windows & doors. Cut out the relevant windows & doors for the front, rear & sidewall of the building.

Apply a thin bead of glue around the printed texture windows as shown in the photo right.

Now stick the printed window texture on to the rear of the clear glazing taking care to align the printed window texture with the printed detail on the clear glazing.

With the printed window texture now glued into place, the window show now look something like in the photo right. Repeat the procedure with the rest of the windows.

 Next, repeat the procedure with the front & rear doors & glue the printed door wrap texture into place on the rear side of the clear printed glazing doors.

We now move on to the Annex Building. From Parts sheet two, cut & remove the Annex rear wall, Annex end wall & eight of the corner brackets (as marked with the orange ‘X’s in the photo right).

Remove the window blank out of the wall with the window. Lightly sand flush any pips on the edges of the parts.

Next cut out the Annex end wall & rear wall texture wraps.

With the two wall texture wraps cut out, cut the door & window openings as shown by the orange lines on the photo right.

Next, apply glue to the rear non printed side of the texture wrap wall pieces & then carefully place the laser-cut wall sections into place on to the glued wraps. Make sure the edges all align up bar the edge with the Quoins. Glue & fold the window & side door flaps down on to the rear side of the wall as shown in the photo right. 

Again, DON’T fold or glue down the Quoin end section of the wall just yet!!  The photo right shows the Annex end wall & rear wall with their texture wraps glued into place. We’ll now move on to fitting the windows.

Next, glue into place from the clear printed glazing sheet, the Annex door. Remember that the door sits about 2 millimeters above the bottom of the wall. Then glue the printed Annex door texture on to the rear of the clear printed glazing door. This will give the window part of the door greater depth. The three photos right show the procedure.  

Now move on to the Annex end wall. Following the same procedure as the other windows, glue & fit the window sill/ledge, followed by gluing the clear printed glazing into place, then finally glue the printed window wrap on to the Annex end wall window opening. As shown in the three photos opposite right.

On the rear of the front wall, apply a bead of Roket Card Glue along the edge of the wall as shown in the photo right.

Now take the main building end wall with the windows, place onto the bead of Roket Card Glue. Make sure the end wall sits at 90 degrees to the front wall. The end wall must sit flush with the bottom edge of the front wall & also the upper edge of the front wall.

On the other side of the end wall, it’s worth gluing an extra bead of glue as shown by the arrow in the photo right, to give the corner joint extra strength. 

To add further strength to the corner joint, we need to use the corner braces. Cut & remove these from the parts sheet. Lightly sand flush any pips from the edges on the corner brace pieces.

Next glue two or three corner braces into place on the inside of the corner joint as shown in the photo right. Again, use the likes of Roket Card Glue for this.

The next wall to go on is the Annex end wall. Again, use the likes of Roket Card Glue for this & glue into place on the end of the front wall as shown in the photo right. The Annex end wall sits on top of the front wall baselayer along its edge. Again also, glue into place two corner wall braces to add strength & also keeping the wall at 90 degrees to the front wall. As shown in the two photos right.

Now, glue & fix into place the Annex rear wall with the door as shown & indicated by the arrow in the photo right. Again glue & fit the corner braces as shown in the photo right, to add further strength to the corner joints. The Annex end wall must sit within/inside the two Annex sidewalls, as highlighted by the two orange circles in the photo right. 

The Quoins, apply glue to the rear non printed side & carefully fold & stick down onto the end wall of the Annex. As shown in the two photos right.

The Quoins on the upper wall above the Annex, apply glue to the rear non printed side & carefully fold & stick down onto the end wall as shown in the photo right.

Next, glue & fix the other end wall & corner braces into place on to the front wall as shown in the photo right. Make sure the end wall sits at 90 degrees to the front wall & is flush with the edge of the front wall. 

Now take the main building rear wall, glue two to three corner braces on to each end as shown in the photo right. Allow time for the glue to set before moving on to the next stage.

Carefully align the rear wall with the two end walls making sure that all walls sit flush, true & square & at 90 degrees to each other. Then glue the internal corner joints as shown in the photo right. Allow time for the glue time to set before moving on to the next stage.

Glue & fold down the corner Quoin wraps as shown in the photo right.

An optional bit to the build now. If you want to add further strength to the building, measure & cut two off-cut pieces of card to fit inside the building as shown in the two photos opposite right. Glue these along the inside of the front & rear walls. We’ve set them at about the height of the first floor with a view to adding some interior lighting ( We’ll look at that in another forthcoming article).

The Roofs

Having assembled the walls on the main building & annex, we now turn our attention to the roof. We’ll start by cutting out the annex roof texture wrap.

Next, hold the roof texture wrap up to a window with the non-printed side facing you,  so that the daylight shines through it & shows the printed side. The orange center fold line can be seen, mark off on the non-printed side the ends of the orange fold line (highlighted in the orange circles in the photo right).

Now using the two marks that we’ve made, place a steel ruler next the two marks & score a fold line between the two marks using the rear blunt edge of a craft knife.

On parts, sheet number three, cut & remove the annex roof part (highlighted in the photo right). Lightly sand flush any pips on the roof part edges.

On the annex roof baselayer, score along with the laser engraved centerfold. As indicated by the two orange arrows in the photo opposite right.   

Using a glue stick (like Prittstick or similar), apply an even layer of glue to the rear non-printed side of the roof texture sheet. Then align both center fold lines on the base layer & texture wrap & place the base layer flush with the edge of roof texture wrap. As shown in the photo right. 

At the opposite end of the annex roof, the overhang of the wrap cut the wrap at the apex from the edge of the base layer as shown in the photo right. Cutting the roof wrap at the apex makes it easier for folding the wrap around the roof base layer. 

Next, cut the roof wrap overhang as shown in the photo right between the two arrows. Repeat this for the opposite corner of the roof. Then glue & fold the roof wrap over the end of the roof base layer as shown in the second photo below right.  

Trim off a 45-degree piece off the roof wrap on each of the two corners as indicated by the two arrows in the photo right.

Glue & fold down the roof wrap along each side of the roof as shown in the photo right.

Next glue the top of the walls of the annex & also the rear edge of the roof (that butts up against the main building end wall). Then carefully stick the roof into place, making sure the rear end of the roof is butted up to the end building wall.

Now we move on to the main building roof. Cut out from the texture wrap sheets the large main roof wrap, & of the laser cut parts sheet number three the main roof base layer & the four triangle roof trusses.

With the main roof texture wrap, viewing from the non-printed side, hold up to the light & mark the center ridgeline of the roof. Then proceed to score a fold line with the rear blunt edge of the craft knife. The photo right shows the roof texture wrap after being scored along the center ridge line.

On the main roof base layer, proceed to score along the laser engraved center fold line with the rear blunt edge of the craft knife. The photo right shows the roof base layer being scored along the center ridgeline using the rear blunt edge of the knife.

Next, glue into place using Roket Card Glue, the roof truss triangle pieces as shown in the photo right. Here we are using weights to hold the roof in position whilst the glue sets. 

Using the glue stick (like Prittstick or similar) apply an even thin layer of glue to the non-printed side of the roof texture wrap. Now stick the roof into place on to the roof base layer. Make sure the roof wrap sits centrally on the base layer, the wrap will overhang all the edges on the baselayer.

On the outer corners of the roof, trim the overhang as shown highlighted in the photo right.

Score, glue & fold down the overhang on the roof wrap edges as shown in the three photos opposite right.

The main roof is now ready for gluing into place.

Now apply a bead of Roket Card glue along the top of the rear wall, top of the front of wall between the area marked with the orange lines, & also along the top of the sloped end walls. As indicated in the photo right. Don’t apply glue to the top of the wall sections marked with the red crosses just yet.

Fit the main roof on to the building, make sure that the roof sits square on all the wall tops. Hold the roof firmly down on the walls whilst the glue grabs & starts to set.

Before doing the two front roof sections, we’ll now do the guttering/downpipes. Turn the wrap sheet over with the guttering/downpipes, so that the rear non-printed side is facing you. Hold the sheet up to the light & mark on the rear of the sheet the center red/orange marker lines. Mark these in pen or pencil, then proceed to score a line between each set of marks. Use the rear blunt edge of the craft knife to do this. The second photo below right shows the sheet after being scored.

Cut the guttering/drainpipe strips out from the sheet.

Place a steel ruler along the center scored fold line. Then proceed to fold the guttering/drainpipe strips over the ruler so that it folds back on its self.

Apply a bead of glue along the inside (non-printed side) of the folded guttering/drainpipe. Then fold the two halves together & allow the glue time to set.

Whilst the gutters/drainpipes are placed to one side for the glue to set, cut out from the texture wrap sheet the two front gable roof textures. On parts sheet three cut & remove the two front gable base layers & also the two front gable roof trusses. Lightly sand any pips flush with the part edges.

On the two front gable base layers, using the rear blunt side of the craft knife, score along the center laser engraved lines.

Now fold the front gables to fit over the roof trusses. Glue one truss into inside the folded front gable roof. Hold in position whilst the glue grabs & sets. 

Using a glue stick (like Prittstick or similar), apply an even thin layer of glue to the non-printed side of the front gable roof wraps. Stick the glued roof wrap on to the front gable base layer, making sure the two sloped sides sit flush with the two sloped sides of the base layer. The wrap will overhang the end of the base layer As shown in the first photo right. 

In the second photo right looking at the gable roof from the underside, cut the center of roof wrap overhang as shown in the second photo right. This gives two glue & fold flaps. Now score the wrap along the edge of the base layer. Then apply glue to the fold flap & fold the glued flap down on to the base layer. Any exposed white paper edges, touch up with a felt tip pen in a colour to match the roof tiles.

Apply a thin bead of Roket Card Glue along the top of the edges of the front gable walls, as well as along the rear two edges of the gable roof edges. As indicated by the arrows in the photo right. Place the gable roof into position on the front gables, make sure that there are no gaps showing. Hold the gable roof in position whilst the glue sets.

Going back to the guttering, cut the guttering strips to suit the length of the rear of the roof, & the section of roof in between the front gables & either side of the front gables, as well as the annex roof. Glue the & fix the guttering into place as shown in the photos opposite right (rear roof & front roof sections shown).

Going back to the guttering, cut the guttering strips to suit the length of the rear of the roof, & the section of roof in between the front gables & either side of the front gables, as well as the annex roof. Glue the & fix the guttering into place as shown in the photos opposite right (rear roof & front roof sections shown).

Chimneys 

Having installed the roof, we now move on to making & fitting the chimneys. Start by cutting & removing the highlighted parts in the two photos right, from parts sheet three. Lightly sand flush any pips on the parts side.

Glue the chimney Vee parts together into a stack of around 10 or 9 high  Make sure that all sides are all in line & flush). As shown in the photo right. 

Next cut out the chimney pots, chimney brick sides & chimney top from the texture wrap sheet.

Apply glue from a glue stick using the likes of Prittstick or similar, to the non-printed side of the chimney brickwork wrap. Then proceed to wrap the glued brickwork around the chimney base layer core stack. Cut the brick sheet overhang in the center as shown in the photo right, as far as the center of the Vee on the base core layer stack.

Either fold & glue the brick wrap overhang on to the Vee side of the chimney or just trim back to the edge Vee. Then using Roket Card Glue, apply the glue on to the Vee part of the chimney & stick into place on the chimney. The chimney stacks on the real building that this kit is based on, are position towards the ends of the roof.

For the chimney top section, score the four flaps & then glue the chimney top base section on to the rear non-printed side of the chimney top wrap. As shown in the photos right.

Apply Rocket Card Glue to the underside of the chimney top & stick it down on to the top of the chimney stack. Make sure there is an evenly spaced overhang of the chimney top above the chimney stack.  

Next, take the chimney pots wrap. You can either paint or colour in the rear non-printed-side in a suitable sooty black colour before wrapping & gluing or after wrapping & gluing. We’ll be painting ours after assembly. Use a small diameter rod or a small screwdriver to roll & wrap the chimney pot wrap around. As shown in the photo right.

Once the chimney pot wrap has been rolled up, glue the end of chimney pot wrap to stop it unrolling. Now repeat the process with the other chimney pots.

Next, glue the chimney pots into place on the chimney stack as shown in the photo right.

Further roof details

Cut out the roof ridge tile & lead flashing strips from the texture wrap sheets.

Using the blunt rear edge of a craft knife & a steel ruler as a guide, score a fold center line on the rear non-printed side of the ridge tile texture wrap. Then place the ridge tile wrap over the edge of a ruler & bend/fold down to form a Vee shape. As shown in the photo right.

Next cut the ridge tile strips to fit on the roof ridges & glue into place as shown in the two photos right.

Next, we move on to the lead flashing. Cut to suit length to fit the locations that are shown in the photos right & below. Place the lead flashing strips face down on a ruler edge & fold down to form a Vee shape. Then glue & fit in to place as shown in the photos right. 

The Front Porch Roof

The next part of this build is to add the front doorway porch roof. Cut & remove the highlighted parts from parts sheet three. These being the roof base layer, two angled pieces & a short bar. From the texture wrap sheets cut & remove the porch roof texture wrap. as shown in the two photos opposite right.

As previously shown earlier on the other roof base layers, score along the laser engraved fold line with the blunt rear edge of a craft knife. Next, bend the roof base layer to a 90-degree angle shape, take the two right-angled pieces, then glue & fix them as shown in the photo right. Hold the assemble in position, whilst the glue grabs & starts to set. 

The rectangle piece is then glued into position as shown in the photo right, on to the center of the two right-angle parts.  

On the non-printed side of the roof texture wrap, place the porch roof base layer on the wrap so it’s flush against the edge of the wrap on one side. Mark the width, of the base layer on the rear non-printed side of the wrap. Then score a fold line between the two marks & also score a send fold line in the center of the wrap for the apex of the roof. As shown in the photo right, make a small cut to the right of the scored fold line (highlighted by the green circle in the photo right).

Using the glue stick (Prittstick or similar), apply glue to the rear non-printed side of the wrap. Then stick the base layer on to the roof wrap texture as shown in the photo right.

At both ends of the roof, trim/cut away a small square section from the corner of the roof wrap. Also, score a fold line on the roof wrap at the point where the baselayer ends are. As shown in the photo right.

Now glue & fold the wraps around the end & front side edges as shown in the photo opposite right. Any exposed white edges of the texture wrap layer, touch up with a felt tip pen, crayon, paint etc.

Cut a strip of the central roof ridge tiles to fit the porch roof. As shown earlier, score a fold line centrally on the rear non-printed side of the ridge tile wrap. Then proceed to bend over the edge of a ruler to get the curved shape to fit on the roof apex. Then glue into place on the apex of the roof as shown in the photo right. 

Barge Boards

Now we move on to fitting the barge boards. Cut & remove the front porch bargeboard base layer from parts sheet one. Lightly sand flush any pips on the part sides flush. Also cut & remove the porch bargeboard texture wrap, as shown in the two photos opposite right. The curved bits on the bargeboard texture wrap are best cut freehand with the craft knife, cut a little bit at a time following the curved profile of the bargeboard. Take your time whilst doing this.

Now glue the bargeboard base layer on to the bargeboard wrap as shown in the photo right. Make sure the straight edges of the wrap align up with the base layer.

Next glue the bargeboard assembly on to the porch roof ( The side which has the texture wrap wrapped around the edge).

Apply glue along the rear edge of the porch roof, then stick into place above the front door as shown in the photo right.

Now cut a strip of the lead flashing to length to fit the porch roof. Using the edge of a ruler, place the lead flashing texture wrap face down with a non-printed side facing upwards, bend the lead flashing texture over the edge of the ruler to form an L shape.

At the point of the apex of the roof where the lead flashing changes angle, make a small cut halfway into the lead flashing (as highlighted by the orange circle in the photo right). This will allow the lead flashing wrap to bend over the top of the porch roof apex.

Now apply glue using a glue stick (like Prittstick or similar) & stick the lead flashing strip into place.

 

Cut out the two triangle-shaped wraps. Cut & remove all the black bits so you are just left with what is shown in the middle photo opposite right. Carefully apply glue to the non-printed side of the two triangle-shaped wraps, using a glue stick. Then stick into place on the front of the building as shown in the third photo opposite right. 

 

Next cut & release from the parts sheet one, the four laser-cut bargeboards. Also from the texture wrap sheet cut out the four large bargeboards, As highlighted in the photo right opposite. Then proceed to glue the baselayer bargeboards on to the rear of the bargeboard texture wraps, as shown in the second photo right. 

Now glue the bargeboard assemblies on to both end walls, & the two front gable walls. As shown in the photos below & lower right. 

 

The Out Building/Shop

We now move on to the assembly of the small outbuilding/shop. Cut & remove the laser cut baselayers from parts sheet number two. Also cut & remove four of the triangle brace pieces. Lightly sand flush any pips on the part edges.

Also cut out from the texture wrap sheets, the outbuilding roof, front & rear walls & also the two end walls. As highlighted in the two photos right.

 

Now glue the baselayers on to each corresponding wall texture wrap, as shown in the three photos right. Again with the stone Quoins that overlap the ends of the baselayer, don’t fold or glue them down just yet.

Same as on the main building front & rear walls, cut, fold & glue the door & window flaps using the same procedure. Be sure to leave the lower doorway lip as shown in the photo right.

Cut out from the texture wrap sheet, the outbuilding front door & window. From the clear glazing sheet, cut out one small window.

Glue the door into the doorway frame followed by gluing the clear glazing printed window on to the window opening.

Now glue the printed window wrap on to the rear of the clear glazed window. Make sure the printed details on both window pieces align up. 

Next glue the corner braces as shown in the photo right, on to the front & rear walls of the out building.

Glue both the end walls on to the rear wall section. Make sure that the end walls are at 90 degrees to the rear wall.

Next, glue the front wall on to the other side of the end walls as shown in the photo right. Again make sure, that the front wall & end walls are flush & are 90 degrees to each other.

Cut out from parts sheet three the outbuilding/shop roof baselayer & from the texture wrap sheet the roof wrap. Using the same procedure as mentioned earlier for wrapping the roof, score along the fold line on the roof baselayer, score the center ridgeline on the rear of the roof wrap. Glue the roof wrap & stick into place on the roof baselayer. Trim the roof wrap corners & glue & fold the roof wrap down around the edges of the roof baselayer.

Glue the roof into place on the outbuilding/shop walls as shown in the photo right.

Apply glue to the rear of the stone quoin flaps & fold around the corner & down on to the end walls, as shown in the photo right. 

Cut, fold & glue the roof center ridge tiles into place on the outbuilding/shop roof, as shown in the photo right.

Now cut out from the texture wrap sheet, the remaining bargeboards & fascia boards.

Next glue the bargeboards on to either end of the small outbuilding/shop, as shown in the photo right.

Moving back to the main building, glue the remaining bargeboard into place on the end of the annex wall. Then on either side of the annex, glue into place the fascia boards. As shown in the two photos right.  

The next item to install is the remaining gutters to the outbuilding/shop & annex. Then cut the down drainpipes to length & glue into place on the walls. Look for the small printed black squares that are in a vertical line on the front & rear walls. These are the locations for the drainpipes. The photos right show the drainpipes after just been glued into place.  

The courtyard

Cut out the courtyard sheet, & glue that down on to a piece of greyboard card, wooden board, or directly on to the baseboard.

We’ve glued the courtyard sheet directly on to a piece of greyboard card using a gluestick. The glued courtyard was then placed under some heavy books to keep it flay whilst the glue set.

Cut the two paving strips out from the texture wrap sheet. Highlighted in the photo right. 

On the curves of the pavement, cut out the triangle wedges as shown in the photo right.

Cut & remove the pavement base layer from parts sheet one. Glue the rear non-printed side of the pavement texture sheet using a glue stick, then place the base layer on to the glued wraps. Then fold & glue the flaps down on to the base layer underside as shown in the photo right.

The pavement can now be glued into place as shown in the photo right. 

Next cut out from parts sheets three & one, the long rear wall & side wall base layers. Glue each of the corresponding wall base layers into stacks of three as shown in the photo right. Make sure all sides are true, flush & square. 

Cut out the wall texture wraps from the texture wrap sheet, as indicated in the photo right.

Glue the rear non-printed side of the rear long wall wrap with a glue stick. Using the centerline of the wall wrap so that it sits on top of the base layer, proceed to fold & stick down the wall wrap on both sides of the wall. Trim off any excess wall wrap.

The two side walls are glued & wrapped as follows. Apply glue to the rear non-printed side of the wrap. Place the base layer so that it sits centrally on the longest part of the wrap.

Then fold the wall wrap ends around both ends of the base layer. Then fold the shorter length of the wall wrap down on to the other side of the base layer, as shown in the two photos opposite right.

Any exposed white edges, touch in with a felt tip pen, crayon, paint etc.

Cut & remove the wall capping stone base layer from parts sheet one. Cut & remove the capping stone wrap from the texture wrap sheet. Proceed to glue & fold the capping stone wrap around the capping stone base layer. As shown in the photos opposite right.

Glue the coping stone strips on to each of the corresponding wall sections.

Next glue the walls into place around the edge of the courtyard. The long rear wall needs to sit within the two shorter end walls. 

Glue the small outbuilding/shop into place on the left-hand side of the entranceway (as indicated on the courtyard texture wrap).

Cut & remove from parts sheet one the gate pillar base layers. On the texture wrap sheet, cut out the two gate post pillar wraps.

Glue the pillar base layers into two stacks of three. Make sure that all edges are true, flush & square.

Apply glue to the non-printed side of the gate pillar wrap. Place the pillar base layer on to the glued wrap as shown in the photo opposite right. Then proceed to fold the glued wrap around the pillar until it looks like the same as in the second photo right, The top bit of the wrap is then folded & glued down into place over the top of the pillar. Touch up any exposed white edges of the wrap with felt tip pen, crayon, or paint.

Glue the gate pillars into place on either side of the entrance way. 

Next cut & remove the two gate base layers from the parts sheet. Cut out the two gate wraps from the texture wrap sheet. Glue the rear non-printed side of the gate wraps. Then wrap one of the gate base layers with the gate wrap, repeat the process with the other gate. You should now have two gates ready for fitting, as shown in the second photo right.

Glue & fit the gates to the gate pillars in your preferred position (open, closed, partly open).

Cut out the sign for above the gateway. Glue & fold the sign front & back up together. Touch up any exposed white edges with a felt tip pen, crayon, or paint. Then glue the sign into place above the gateway. As shown in the photo right.

Choose the pub name sign of your choice from the supplied pup names, cut the pub name sign out & glue into place as shown in the second photo right.

Now cut out the pub cellar door wrap layer & base layer. Glue, fold & wrap the cellar door base layers, as shown in the two photos right.

Glue the cellar doors in your chosen position. We’ve opted for fitting them around the back of the pub in the rear courtyard as shown in the photo right. 

On the texture wrap sheet is some smaller signs & the extractor fan vent grill. Cut these out & glue into place on the pup walls in your chosen position. 

All that is left now is to glue the pub building into place on the courtyard base.

That now concludes the building & assembly of this kit.

Happy modelling

Print Friendly, PDF & Email

About The Author

Leave a reply

Become A VIP Today!

Translate