Scale Model Scenery Kit Builds Guides – KX036-OO Concrete & Brick Retaining Wall – OO / 4mm / 1:76
Scale Model Scenery Kit Builds Guides
KX036-OO Concrete & Brick Retaining Wall Kit OO/1:76/4mm Scale
In this Scale Model Scenery Kits Build Guide, we take a look at our popular KX036-OO Concrete & Brick Retaining Wall Kit. This kit is designed to be used on its own & also with our KX025-OO Modern Road Bridge Kit. The KX025-OO Modern Road Bridge Kit (Parts 1 & 2) can be found in our Builds Guides Index here…
The KX036-OO Retaining wall is available in download form here in the Railwaymodellers.com club & also as a pre-printed kit over on our main website www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk. The pre-printed kit comes in a choice of with & without graffiti, the download kit version comes with both options.
The kit can be built as a single-sided retaining wall but can also be built to create a raised railway or roadway. If building as a raised roadway you’ll need the road sheets from the modern road bridge kit. The pre-printed kit modern road bridge comes with two spare two-lane road sheets, whilst the download modern road bridge kit, simply print off additional road sheets as needed.
The photos below show one example where the KX036-OO concrete retaining wall has been used on a railway incline, so only part of the wall can be seen. The lower the incline line drops the more of the retaining wall can be seen.
For a raised roadway, such as a matching approach road section to the modern road bridge, then the retaining wall can be built as a raised roadway or indeed a raised railway. The photo below shows a raised roadway section using this kit. Please note, you’ll need the additional pavement & roadway sections from the modern road bridge kit.
The KX036-OO Retaining wall kit can also be used in scratchbuilding & kitbashing projects. So in this example, using the download version, a taller concrete retaining wall has been added around & above a Peco Tunnel portal, to suggest that the original brick retaining wall been replaced by engineering works by Network Rail, with a concrete retaining wall.
The KX036-OO Retaining wall kit is a versatile kit that can be used in a number of ways as shown above. We’ll now take a look at what comes in the pre-printed kit (The download version is the same, but any additional sheets & parts can be printed off as needed.)
The Pre-printed version of the kit comes in our standard bio-degradable clear cellophane packet, complete with the following: A set of instruction sheets, Greyboard Card Sheets for the base layer, photo-realistic texture wraps. Baselayer cutting templates. The photos right & below show the supplied kit contents.
The download version comes with the same parts, though you’ll need to print them off on your home computer printer & supply your own card. Print the photo-realistic wrap layers onto 100gsm mat photo paper or similar, the base template layers print off on to normal 80gsm copier paper. Packs of greyboard card for scratch building & use can be found over on the Scalemodelscenery.co.uk website.
- Cutting mat
- Steel ruler (for cutting against)
- Craft knife with a new sharp blade & spare sharp blades ( A lot of cutting on this kit!! )
- Glue such as Roket Card Glue or Super Phatic glue from Deluxe Materials – for gluing the greyboard/card parts together.
- Glue Stick such as Pritt Stick or the likes of Wilko’s stores own cheaper brand of glue stick. Use the glue stick for the texture wrap layers
- Our SX002 Corner Jig Tools (Available here: https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/sx002-card-kit-assembly-jig-90-degrees-1869-p.asp )
Retaining Wall Assembly
Start with the baselayer Part A’s. Cut these out from the baselayer parts sheet. Please note that the wall can be built in various heights from 80mm, 85mm, 90mm & 95mm high (see the second photo opposite right). Trim the wall along the desired or required marked height line. We’ll be building the wall at its tallest height of 95mm tall.
Glue the base layer Part A’s to the greyboard card & allow the glue to set before cutting out the base layer. Here we’ve used a glue stick to glue the base layer to the parts sheet. Make sure that there are no lumps of glue that could spoil & raise the base layer.
Next cut out what we call the wrap layers, the concrete wall wraps labelled ‘A’. Depending on which version you’ve opted for, the kit may or may not have the graffiti-covered wall option. Here you can see both the graffiti-covered wall & a non-graffitti covered wall.
Use a craft knife with a new blade & steel ruler to act as a straight edge to cut against, to give crisp clean straight cuts, when cutting the wrap layers out from the sheet.
Using the glue stick, apply a thin even layer of glue on the base layer, up to where we’ve marked with the orange dashed line. Make sure that there are no lumps of glue, any lumps of glue are removed or flatten out.
Now carefully place the concrete wall wrap onto the glued baselayer. Make sure that the concrete wall wrap, sits flush with the bottom edge & side edges of the base layer. The top edge of the concrete wall wrap should sit level & flush with the bottom of the dark grey band on the baselayer.
Next cut out base layer templates ‘Wall Base Layer part ‘B’s’ (highlighted in the orange box in the 1st photo opposite right). There are six templates for Wall Base Layer part ‘B’s. You’ll need to mark out & cut out an additional extra two of these to give you a total of eight ‘Wall Base Layer part ‘B’s’.
The ‘Wall Base Layer part ‘B’s’ now need to be glued into stacks of two. We recommend using our SX002 corner jig tool to help align the baselayers so that the edges are true & square.
Apply a thin layer of Deluxe Materials Roket Card glue to one side of a ‘Wall Base Layer part ‘B’. as shown in the photo opposite right.
Next, take a second ‘Wall Base Layer part ‘B’ & lay that onto the first glued ‘Wall Base Layer part ‘B’. Use the SX002 corner jig tool to help align the baselayers so that the edges are true & square. Press both base layers firmly together whilst the glue sets. We now have a stack of two ‘Wall Base Layer part ‘B’s.
Repeat the process so that you end up with four sets of pairs of ‘Wall Base Layer part ‘B’ stacks of two.
Now take one stack of two wall base layer part B strip, & glue it onto the rear side at the top of the wall base layer A (the side without the concrete wrap on). As shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure that the wall strip base layer sits flush with the top edge & side edges of wall base layer A.
Now we need the top wall base layer wrap B. On the texture wrap sheet, you’ll see there are orange/red score marker lines. On the rear of the sheet opposite side to the orange/red line, make a mark in pen or pencil. Do the same at the opposite end of the wall & now using the rear blunt edge of the craft knife, carefully score a fold line between the two marks make in pen or pencil.
Cut out the wall wraps, then turn them over so that the printed side faces downwards. Apply a thin even layer of glue to the non-printed side of the wall wrap. Again we’re using a glue stick which gives a nice even thin coating of glue.
Place the glued wall wrap onto the wall base layer as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure that the wall wrap sits along the top of the grey band as shown in the photo opposite right.
Now carefully fold & stick down the glued wall wrap over the top of the wall base layer. As shown, in the three photos opposite right.
Then, fold & stick down the wall wrap over the top of the wall strip base layer. At the bottom of the wall strip, stick the brick wrap over & baselayer (as shown in the photo opposite right) to create a slight lip with the photo-realistic texture wrap.
We now move on to the deck side base of the retaining wall. Cut out texture wrap part E the Deck Side wrap.
Before cutting the Deck E wrap out from the parts sheet, hold the sheet up to a window, with the printed side facing away from you. The light through the window will show the printed side through onto the non-printed side. Mark in pen or pencil on the non-printed side, the orange marker lines. As shown in the photo opposite right.
On the non-printed side, score a fold line between the pen/pencil marks. Use the blunt rear edge of the craft knife & a steel ruler as a guide to scoring the fold line against. Be very careful not to cut through the texture wrap whilst scoring the fold line. As highlighted in the photo opposite right.
Once the fold lines have been scored, proceed with cutting out the side deck texture wrap.
Next, we move on to the wall footer sections. Cut out the template baselayer part C the Side deck base layers.
Glue the Side deck baselayer C template layers onto the greyboard card (use a glue stick or similar) & allow time for the glue to set. Once the glue has set, cut out the footer base layers from the greyboard card.
Using a glue stick or similar, apply glue to the rear non-printed side of the side deck wrap. Place the base layer centrally onto the glued side of the wrap as shown in the photo opposite right. Then fold & stick down the two remaining side sides of the wrap around the base layer, as shown in the photo opposite right.
The side deck section should now look the same as in the photo opposite right. Make note of how the weathering is on the side deck, the heavily weathered streaking should run downwards from the top.
Moving back to the retaining wall, you’ll see a dark grey band which we’ve highlighted with the orange opposite right. This is where the deck side strip needs to be glued & fitted.
Moving back to the retaining wall, you’ll see a dark grey band which we’ve highlighted with the orange square. This is where the deck side strip needs to be glued & fitted to.
Apply glue to the rear of the side deck, & carefully stick it into place as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure the deck side strip sits level, as shown in the photo opposite right.
We now move on to the retaining wall footer section. On the footer, texture wrap part C, like the deck side strip, mark out the score lines. You’ll need two score lines per footer strip, as highlighted by the orange arrows.
Again, hold the sheet up to a window so that the printed side shows through onto the non-printed side & mark in pen or pencil the start & end of the score fold lines.
Again, using the blunt rear edge of a craft knife, score a fold line between the two marks. Two score lines per footer strip highlighted in orange in the photo opposite right.
Now cut out the footer part D base layers. You’ll need 3 layers per footer. As the kit makes four retaining wall sections, you’ll need to cut out 12 part D baselayer strips. Mark out & cut extra ones as needed.
Glue the base layer templates onto the greyboard card using a glue stick. Allow the glue to dry & then cut out the base layers from the greyboard card. Once cut out from the greyboard card, take three of the baselayer footer strips. These we will glue into a stack of three.
Here we’re using our SX002 corner jig tool to help align & keep the edges true & square. Use the likes of Deluxe Materials Roket card glue to glue the baselayers together. Glue the baselayers into a stack of three.
Repeat the process so that you have four stacks of three high card strips. As shown in the photo opposite right.
Using a glue stick or similar, apply glue to the rear non-printed side of the footer texture wrap. Carefully, place the footer baselayer onto the glued footer wrap layer, so that the top edge of the baselayer is flush with one of the score fold lines.
Then proceed to wrap & glue down the footer wrap around the baselayer as shown in the photo opposite right.
Using Roket Card glue, apply a thin even layer to the rear side of the footer strip. Then carefully stick into place along the bottom of the retaining wall, as shown in the photo opposite right.
We now move on to the sidewall brick pillars. Cut out baselayer part E’s the brick pillar base layers from the baselayer parts sheet.
Then like the deck side & footer strips, mark out & score two fold lines per brick pillar wrap. In the photo opposite right, we show the brick pillar wraps. The lower sheet in the photo opposite right is the rear non-printed side of the brick pillar wrap sheet. The orange highlight lines show the twin scored fold lines for each brick pillar.
Glue the base layer part ‘E’s on to greyboard card & allow time for the glue to dry & set. Once the glue has set, cut out the base layers part E for the brick pillars.
Glue the base layer part ‘E’s & place centrally on to the brick pillar wraps as shown in the photo opposite right. Then proceed to glue & stick down the wrap around the baselayer part E.
The brick pillar should now look as shown in the photo opposite right. Proceed to glue & wrap the remaining wall brick pillars.
Measure the gap between the footer strip & deck side strip on the retaining wall. Transfer this measurement to the brick pillar, mark the brick pillar & then cut the brick pillar using a craft knife. The brick pillar should then fit in between the footer strip & deck side strip.
Glue & fit the brick pillar wrap into place so it sits flush with the end of the wall as shown in the image right.
On the next retaining wall section, glue fit into place another brick pillar. Sit this pillar so that it half overhangs the end of the wall as shown in the photo opposite right. Use Roket Card glue for this bit as Roket card glue gives a good strong joint.
Apply a bead of Roket Card glue along the end of the wall & on the rear of the brick pillar as shown in the photo opposite right.
Now bring the two retaining wall sections together, as shown in the photo opposite right. Place some heavy books on top to keep the wall sections flat whilst the Roket Card glue sets.
Turn the wall over & apply a further bead of Roket Card glue to the rear on the joint line between the two wall sections. Allow time for the glue to set.
Repeat the process as needed to extend the retaining wall. The pre-printed kit version will make a wall four sections long. The download version will make a wall as long as you like by printing off further additional wall parts as needed.
The small brick pillars are the next part of the build. Cut out the small brick pillar base layer templates labeled ‘F’ from the template base layer sheet.
Once cut out, glue the template part F’s on to greyboard card & allow time for the glue to dry. Once the glue has dried, cut out the part F’s from the greyboard card.
Apply glue to the rear of the non-printed side of the small brick pillar wrap. Place the base layer centrally onto the glued wrap, then proceed to wrap & stick down the wrap around the base layer. As shown in the photo opposite right. Repeat the process for as many small brick pillars as needed.
Now glue & fix into place the small brick pillar so that it sits over the joint line on the top wall, as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure the small brick pillar is flush with the wall top.
Turn the wall over, glue & fit into place a small brick pillar over the rear joint line on the wall. You will have to cut down the small brick pillar slightly to match the height of the top brick wall.
Additional deck joint & footer joint cover wraps are included. Cut a suitable width strip from both wraps to cover the joint lines.
Glue & stick into place the additional deck joint & footer joint cover wraps as shown in the two photos opposite right. You can top in the white edges of the joint cover wraps, with a felt tip pen, paint, crayon, pencil etc.
If wanting to add additional depth behind the retaining wall if using against a backscene, we’ve included some additional spacers, part G on the base layer parts sheet. Cut these out & glue them on to greyboard card. Once the glue has dried, cut the part G spacers out from the greyboard card. Glue into stacks as needed & glue on onto the rear of the retaining wall. This will then set the retaining wall away from the backscene, when placed against a back scene, which adds further depth to the layout.
All that’s lets is to cut a small strip of the brick header strip & glue into place across the top of the joint line on the brick wall top. This completes the assembly of a single-sided retaining wall.
Full raised roadway/railway option
The kit can also be built as full relief raised roadway or raised railway, the photo opposite shows the kit built as a raised roadway. In this configuration it can be used with the modern road bridge kit as the approach section to the bridge deck.
Build the retaining side walls as directed earlier above in this article builds guide, so that you have two retaining wall sections both two wall sections long. You can, however, build the wall s longer by using an additional pre-printed kit version or download kit version.
The end walls are now needed. Cut the end wall baselayer parts H & I out from the baselayer template sheet.
Glue the wall baselayer parts H & I onto the greyboard card & allow time for the glue to set. Once the glue has set, cut out the end wall base layer parts H & I out from the greyboard card.
You’ll notice like before, that there are height markings on the templates (see the photo opposite right). Cut the end walls to your required height.
Use our SX002 corner jig tool, to align both parts (I & H) whilst being glued together into a stack of two, as shown in the photo opposite right.
Repeat the process with the second end wall parts I & H, so that you end up with two pairs of end wall base layers.
The end wall wraps part F now need to be cut out from the wrap layers part sheet. Highlighted by the two orange X’s in the photo opposite right.
Apply a thin even layer of glue to the white area of the end wall baselayer, as shown in the photo opposite right.
Place the end wall wrap F onto the glued end wall base layer part H. Make sure that the two corner lines (highlighted by the two orange arrows) align up with the edge of base layer H, as shown in the photo opposite right.
The two end flap sections, lightly score a fold line the wrap along the edge of the base layer using the rear blunt edge of the craft knife (as indicated between the two orange lines in the photo opposite right). Once scored, glue, fold & stick down the flaps around the ends of the base layer & onto the rear of the base layer, as indicated by the orange arrow.
Next cut out the end wall deck end base layers part J. Glue the part J base layers onto the greyboard card & allow time for the glue to dry. Once the glue has dried, cut & remove the base layer part J’s from the greyboard card sheet.
Place the glued part J base centrally onto the non-printed side of the end deck wrap part G, as shown in the photo opposite right. Apply glue to the two long side wraps & then fold & stick down onto the base layer. DON’T GLUE AND FOLD THE SMALL END FLAPS JUST YET!!
Apply glue to the rear side of the end deck base layer part H. Then place on onto the top section of the end wall as shown in the photo opposite right. The small end flaps will overhang the sides of the end wall at this stage.
Turn the end wall over so that the rear side faces you. Apply glue to the two small end flaps, then proceed to wrap & stick down the small end flaps around the end wall as shown in the photo opposite right.
Now glue the corner triangle base layer templates on to greyboard card & allow time for the glue to dry. Once the glue has dried, carefully cut out the corner triangles from the greyboard card sheet. If you require more corner triangle brace pieces, simply mark round one of the ones that have cut out onto the greyboard card. Then cut out as required.
Using Deluxe Materials Roket Card Glue or Super Phatic Glue, glue three or four corner brace pieces onto to rear side of the end wall or retaining side wall. Make sure that the braces at mounted flush with the edge of the end wall/sidewall. As shown in the photo opposite right.
Now apply Roket Card Glue or Super Phatic Glue to the exposed ends of the corner braces & edge of the wall. Then bring the end wall & side wall together & make sure that both walls are at 90 degrees & square to each other. Apply an extra bead of glue along the inside of the corner joints & around the corner braces. This will give added further strength to the corner joints.
Repeat the process & glue the remaining end wall & corner braces onto the opposite end of the retaining wall. This will create a U shape. As shown in the photo opposite right.
Next measure the width of the deck end wall tops & the long length of the side retaining wall. Mark these measurements out onto some greyboard card & cut out the marked area. This will be the road deck top. You can, if wanting to make the road deck more robust cut a second road deck piece out of the greyboard card & glue it into a stack of two.
Use the spare road texture sheets from the modern road bridge kit, & glue them onto the road deck greyboard pieces.
Now glue & fit the road deck onto the wall structure so that it sits flush with the bottom of the upper brick wall. Add as many additional corner braces as needed. We’ve added an extra piece of card on the underside of the road deck joint to increase the strength of the road deck joint & to keep both road deck sections level. Highlighted by the orange rectangle in the photo opposite right.
Glue & fit the remaining side wall & corner braces into position, as shown in the photo to create a box shape. We’ve cut out an extra brace piece marked with the orange X & glued & fitted that in the middle, from a scrap piece of card. This will prevent the center sections of the sides walls from bowing outwards.
The last couple of things to add is to make pavement from the modern bridge kit (see the builds guide to the modern road bridge kit) or use one of our other pavement kits. Then glue the pavement into place on the road. If joining up to the modern road bridge kit, glue the small brick pillars (as described earlier) over the sidewall joints between the raised roadway & bridge deck.
That concludes the build of the KX036-OO retaining wall kit.