Select Page

Scale Model Scenery Kit Builds Guides – KX025-OO Modern Bridge Card Kit – OO / 1:76 / 4mm (Part Two – The Bridge Deck)

Scale Model Scenery Kit Builds Guides

KX025-OO Modern Bridge Kit OO/1:76/4mm Scale

Part Two The Bridge Deck

Following on from Part One (The Bridge Piers) of this two-part article, we now move on to the construction & assembly of the actual bridge deck. If you missed part one, you can find part one here:

https://www.railwaymodellers.com/kx025-oo-modern-bridge-card-kit-oo-176-4mm-part-one-the-bridge-piers/

So to recap: In this guide, we take a look at what comes in the kit, & how to build it. This kit is one of our older kits which there will be an upgraded version in the form of an all-new Laser Cut version during 2021. The KX025-OO Bridge Kit, primarly is a download kit, which a pre-printed version was released into the main Scalemodelscenery.co.uk range last year or so. Both versions build the same way as you’ll see in this guide.

The KX025-OO is an essential piece of infrastructure for any Modern Image model railway layout. The KX025-OO OO scale concrete & brick bridge is perfect for use as a road or rail bridge in single or double track format on your model railway layout. Comes with optional graffiti on the brick piers (to help give that gritty urban look) and lots of weathering it will look right at home on your modern model railway layout or diecast diorama.

The modular design of this bridge kit enables you to build a bridge of any length, with a deck height of between 80mm and 95mm to suit your requirements, For allowing higher clearances for things such as OHLE equipped lines. We’ve also included a good selection of brick wraps for the piers for minimal repeats in detailing and weathering on each pier. Additional brick textures with graffiti as also included for a very authentic, up-to-date look.

Key Features:
  • Kit includes enough parts to build:
    • 2 bridge piers up to 95mm high,
    • 2 road sections 190mm long (total bridge span from one kit is 380mm)
    • 4 lengths of brick wall and 4 lengths of asphalt pavement.
    • 4 x 190mm lengths of the very realistic road are also included in both 2 lane and one-way formats.

The kit can be used as a road bridge with the supplied road texture sheets or as a bridge to carry rail traffic. The nature of the construction of this kit with its internal bridge deck ribbing makes for a very sturdy bridge. In load testing of the bridge deck four 1lb bags of sugar on the suspended deck, in which the bridge deck carried the load without any problems at all. This, if built correctly, will cope very well indeed if used to carry rail traffic on your layout.

Let us now take a look at the kit contents & how to build it. This 2nd part focuses on the bridge deck.

The kit comes in our bio-degradable clear cellophane packet, complete with the following: A set of instruction sheets, Greyboard Card Sheets for the base layer, photo-realistic texture wraps. Baselayer cutting templates. The photos right & below show the supplied kit contents.

 

Tools Needed:

  • Cutting mat
  • Steel ruler (for cutting against)
  • Tweezers
  • Craft knife with a new sharp blade & spare sharp blades ( a lot of cutting on this kit)
  • Glue such as Roket Card Glue or Super Phatic glue from Deluxe Materials – for gluing the greyboard/card parts together.
  • Glue Stick such as Pritt Stick or the likes of Wilko’s stores own cheaper brand of glue stick. Use the glue stick for the texture wrap layers
  • Scissors
  • Our SX002 Corner Jig Tools
  • Optional… Plenty of coffee or tea & biscuits!!

 

The Bridge Deck

The bridge deck builds as a box section with internal cross-bracing making for a very sturdy structure, which will hold a fair load so ideal for use to carry rail traffic on your layout. So to begin, cut out the bridge deck template cross braces & template deck side pieces. The cross braces are parts marked B & C, the deck sides are marked A1 & A2. As shown in the photo opposite right.

 

Cut the template parts (B & C, A1 & A2) out from the template parts sheet. Use a craft knife with a new sharp blade, don’t use a knife with a blunt blade as this will drag, snag & rip the template layer whilst cutting out. To help guide cutting straight as possible, use a steel ruler to cut against, the steel ruler will act as a cutting guide.

Once the template layers have been cut out, glue them using the likes of a glue stick such as Pritt Stick & stick on to the supplied greyboard card (Pre-Printed version), or if doing the download version you’ll need 0.7mm thick card. We have packs of suitable thickness greyboard card for use with scratch building & download kits here: https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/modelling-materials-305-c.asp

Allow time for the glue to set. Place some heavy books on top of the templates whilst the glue sets.

 

Next, we need the bridge deck template top & bottom sections marked D & E. There is enough supplied in the pre-printed version to do two deck sections. If doing the download version, print off as many as you need to create any length bridge deck.

 

Cut out the bridge deck template top & bottom sections marked D & E, glue them to the card & place some heavy books on them whilst the glue sets, to keep them flat. Once the glue has set, carefully cut the templates D & E out from the card.

Apply a small bead of glue along the long grey bands that run across the bridge deck top section. As highlighted by the two orange arrows in the photo opposite right. Use the likes of Deluxe Roket Card Glue or Deluxe Materials Super Phatic Glue.

Next, place the cross brace section onto the glued bead on the shaded grey panel on the bridge deck top (as shown in the photo opposite right). Make sure that the cross brace is flush with the edges of the bridge deck sides & that the brace is sitting at 90 degrees to the bridge deck. Use a small block such as a Lego to keep the cross brace sitting at 90 degrees whilst the glue sets. ( Take care not to glue the lego brick!!).

You’ll notice in the photo opposite right, that the two cross braces labeled ‘C’ go at the outer ends of the bridge deck. These must sit flush with the ends of the bridge deck. The remaining cross braces labeled ‘B’ are glued & located onto the remaining grey band strips. As shown in the photo opposite right.

With the cross braces glued into place, allow time for the glue to set. Next apply a bead of Deluxe Materials Roket Card Glue or Deluxe Materials Super Phatic glue along the top of each of the long edges of the cross braces as shown in the photo opposite right.

Now carefully place the bridge deck lower bottom section onto the glued cross braces. Make sure that the edges of the lower bottom section align & are flush with the end cross braces. Also, make sure that the lower bottom section sits flush with the top edges of the angled sides of the cross braces.

Now glue the long side section A1 onto the bridge deck side as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure part A1 (box section side) is flush with the ends of the bridge deck & flush with the change of angle on the cross brace ends.

Repeat the process with the opposite side of the bridge deck.

Next, glue the deck side A2 into place on the bridge deck as shown in the photo opposite right. A tip here to keep the bridge deck flat & level, place some weights on the bridge deck prior to gluing the bridge side A2 into place. Apply plenty of glue along the joint lines to add further strength to the bridge deck joint sides. Allow time for the glue to set. Repeat the process on the opposite side of the bridge deck.

Repeat the above process with the opposite side of the bridge deck.

We now move on to applying the bridge deck photo-realistic texture wrap layers. Carefully cut out the two bridge deck bottom wraps Part E on the texture wrap parts sheet. As shown in the photo opposite right.

Using a glue stick like Pritt Stick or similar, apply glue to the nonprinted side of the texture wrap & stick it into place on the bridge deck (the smaller narrower side) as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure there are no air bubbles on lumps, as this will spoil the concrete texture wrap effect.

Next, cut out the side deck wraps from the texture parts sheet. Two deck wraps per side of each bridge section.

The score fold lines now need to be marked on the nonprinted side of the deck side texture wraps that we’ve just cut out. A tip here is to place the cut out wrap up against a window with the non-printed side facing towards you. The printed side will then become visible through the non-printed side. The two long black weathered lines, mark in pen or pencil on the non-printed side of the texture wrap (at each end of the weathered line), a marker as shown in the photo opposite right. This will be our guide for scoring along the back of the weathered line.

Using a steel ruler, place the ruler on the marked lines at either end of the texture wrap. Using the rear blunt edge of the craft knife, score a fold line between the two markers. Repeat the process, so that you have two scored fold lines, as shown in the photo opposite right.

Apply glue to the nonprinted side of the texture sheet using a glue stick or similar. 

Place the bridge deck on to the glued bridge deck side wrap, as shown in the two photos opposite right. Make sure with the bridge deck side texture wrap, that you have an equal overhang at each end. The wider top edge of the bridge deck must sit on the first fold line (with the black weathering marks) of the texture sheet.

Then glue & fold the remainder of the deck side wrap around the bridge deck as shown in the photos opposite right.

At each end of the texture wrap overhang, cut three times to make four glue end flaps. As indicated by the orange lines in the photo opposite right. 

Next glue & fold down the glued flaps as shown in the photo opposite right, around the end of the bridge deck.  Repeat the process at the other end of the bridge deck, then move on to gluing & wrapping the other side of the bridge deck with the second bridge deck side texture wrap.

Repeat the process described above by wrapping the second bridge deck, so you have two wrapped bridge decks. As shown in the photo opposite right.

We now join the two bridge deck sections together. Apply glue Such as Deluxe Materials Roket Card Glue or Super Phatic Glue to the ends of the bridge decks. Place both decks on a level surface & then butt them together. Make sure that the deck sides on both decks are aligned as shown in the photo opposite. You may find you have a slight gap between the bridge deck, due to the thickness of the end wraps. To fill the gap, you may need to cut, glue & fit a filler card piece to go between the two bridge decks. Once the decks have been glued together apply a second filling of glue along the joint & allow to set. The photo opposite right shows, the two bridge decks glued together & the second glue infilling along the gap between the deck sections. 

Whilst the glue on the bridge decks is setting, apply pressure at either end of the bridge decks to keep the decks pushed together. This can be done using weights as we’ve done in the photo opposite right.

One the glue has dried on the bridge deck joint. The joint line now needs to be hidden with a covering strip. Cut out the deck covering strip part ‘D’ from the texture wrap sheet.

Like the bridge deck side wraps earlier, mark out the weathered lines on the non-printed side of the texture wrap & score the two fold lines. As shown in the photo opposite. Once scored, apply glue to the non-printed side of the bridge deck joint wrap. Use the likes of a glue stick such as a Pritt stick to glue the rear non printed side of the bridge deck joint wrap.  

Like the bridge deck side wraps earlier, mark out the weathered lines on the non-printed side of the texture wrap & score the two fold lines. As shown in the photo opposite with the orange arrows. Once scored, apply glue to the non-printed side of the bridge deck joint wrap. Use the likes of a glue stick such as a Pritt stick to glue the rear non printed side of the bridge deck joint wrap.

Then proceed to fold & stick the scored edges down so that the joint strip has the texture wrap facing outwards on both the front & back sides.

Take the joint strip & glue it into place so it’s flush with the top of the deck side, as highlighted in the orange circle in the photo opposite right. Then proceed to glue the joint strip along the rest of the lower deck side as shown & highlighted orange box in the second photo opposite right. There will be an excess joint strip at the other end of the bridge joint line. Trim the excess flush with the bridge deck.

We’re building the bridge as a road overbridge, so we are building the two-lane road option. Cut out the two-lane road texture sheets. If building a longer bridge, on the download version, print off more road sheets or the pre-printed version you’ll need to purchase another of the bridge kit, but we are looking at doing a standalone version of the road texture sheet to be introduced into our range.

With the road sheets cut out, apply a thin even layer of glue, such as Pritt stick or similar to the non-printed side of the road sheet. Then carefully stick down on the top of the road deck. You can either put the road sheet so it’s flush with the end of the bridge deck or so that it overhangs the end of the bridge to hide the joint line between the bridge & the approach road. 

Now glue & fix into place the second road sheet, making sure it’s butted up & flush with the first road sheet. 

Either leave the road sheet overhanging the bridge deck, so as mentioned above, it’ll hide the joint line between the bridge deck & approach road. Or trim off the road sheet excess overhang as shown in the photo opposite right. The excess overhang highlighted by the two orange lines in the photo opposite right.

The Bridge Deck Side Walls

The next part of the kit build is the bridge deck sidewalls. For this we need template side wall parts A, B, & C. Cut these templates out from the sheet.

Glue the sidewall templates onto the card & allow the glue to dry. Once the glue has set, cut the glued card templates out from the card sheet.

Glue the sidewall templates onto the card & allow the glue to dry. Once the glue has set, cut the glued card templates out from the card sheet.

Glue the sidewalls into stacks of three, so part A’s into a stack of three, part B’s into stacks of three & so on. as shown in the photo opposite right.

The sidewall texture wraps, need to be cut out the next. The side walls we’ve highlighted in the photo with the orange X’s.

The brick sidewall textures now need to be sored with two fold lines, as shown in the photo opposite right. The score lines need to be the width apart of the wall top bricks. Use the texture wrap up to the window method to see the top wall brick strip appear on the non-printed side of the wrap. Mark the brick strip on the non-printed side, then score a fold line between the two marks.

The brick sidewall textures now need to be sored with two fold lines, as shown in the photo opposite right. The score lines need to be the width apart of the wall top bricks. Use the texture wrap up to the window method to see the top wall brick strip appear on the non-printed side of the wrap. Mark the brick strip on the non-printed side, then score a fold line between the two marks.

Apply a bead of glue along the top of one long edge of the wall base layer. As shown & highlighted in the photo opposite right.

Place the wall texture sheet as shown on to the glued wall baselayer. Make sure the wall texture wrap top wall bricks section sits centrally on the baselayer.

Glue & stick down the sidewall textures on to the sidewall baselayer to complete the wrapping of the base layer. Repeat the process with the remaining sidewalls. Please note that one side of the wrap is slightly longer than the other. Do not trim this slight excess wrap overhang.

Now apply glue to the unwrapped section (the bottom of the wall) & fix it into place on the bridge deck, making sure the slightly longer wrapped side of the wall faces to the outside of the bridge. Highlighted by the orange arrow in the second photo opposite right. The excess overhang of the wall wrap will cover the joint line between the deck side the bottom of the wall.

To add further strengthen to the joint between the wall & the bridge deck, apply a thin bead of glue along the bottom of the wall. Highlighted between the two green arrows in the photo opposite right.

Repeat the above procedure with the rest of the bridge deck sidewalls. Make sure that the walls are firmly butted up to each other. 

The next bit is the wall pillars. Cut out the wall pillar templates & glue them on to the card. Once the glue has set, cut out the card pillar base layers.

Cut out from the texture parts sheet, the wall pillar texture wraps. For the wall Pillars that are going the side of the wall with the pavement, these need to a little shorter. You can see in the image right, a text box with further information. As the text box says, cut the wall pillar wraps that are going on the pavement side of the bridge shorter. A guideline (highlighted between the two orange arrows) cut the pillar wraps accordingly on the guideline. For the pillars that are going on the outside of the bridge or on the non-pavement side, don’t cut the pillars shorter.

Apply glue to the non-printed side of the pillar wrap, using a glue stick or similar. Proceed to then wrap the baselayer glued wrap around the pillar base layer.  

On the side of the bridge that will not be having the pavement, glue & fix into place the wall pillars over the joint line between the two wall sections. As shown in the two photos opposite right.

Before fitting the wall pillars on the pavement side of the bridge, we first need to assemble & fix the pavement into place. Cut out the pavement templates & glue them on to the card. Once the glue has dried, cut out the card pavement base layers. Glue them into stacks of two, so two A’s, two B’s, two C’s & D’s.

Cut out the pavement wraps ‘A’ as many as needed. & glue them on to the pavement card base layers. Make sure the top kerb black edge line sites right above the edge of the card base layer. As highlighted by the two orange arrows in the second photo opposite right.

Glue & wrap the rest of the kerbstone part of the pavement wrap around the edge of the card base layer. As shown in the photo opposite right.

Apply glue to the underside of the pavement as shown in the photo opposite right.

Stick the glued pavement down on to the bridge deck, making sure it’s butted up to the bridge sidewall. As shown in the photo opposite right.

Glue into place the shorter wall brick pillar over the joint line between the two wall sections, on the pavement side.

Glue into place the other long wall brick pillar over the joint line between the two wall sections, on the outside of the bridge wall.

Cut out the extra brick wall header strip from the texture wrap sheet. This will be used to cover the top of the joint line between the two sidewall sections & on the ends of the sidewalls.

All that’s left is to glue the bridge piers to the underside of the bridge deck. This completes the assembly of this kit. The kit can be used with the matching concrete & brick retaining wall kit, which we’ll take a look at in a forthcoming article.

 

Happy modelling.

Print Friendly, PDF & Email

About The Author

2 Comments

  1. wicky0570

    Wow! That is a comprehensive build article! The finished bridge looks fantastic. I feel this build is a little too complicated for my fat fingers but was a very interesting read.

    • Iain

      We’ve had a lot of requests for this build guide, it’s taken a little while to do. But it should be doable for most folk, however… keep an eye on our new kit releases 😉

Leave a reply

Become A VIP Today!

Translate

Categories