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Scale Model Scenery Kit Builds Guides – KX006-N 7′ Victorian Red Brick Lineside Weathered Wall N/2mm/1:148 Scale

Scale Model Scenery Kit Builds Guides

KX006-N 7′ Victorian Red Brick Lineside Weathered Wall N/2mm/1:148 Scale

The next in our growing series of Scale Model Scenery Kit walkthrough builds guides is the N gauge/scale KX006-N 7′ Victorian Red Brick Lineside Weathered Wall. In this guide, we take a look at what comes in the kit, & how to build it. The KX006-N Victorian Recessed Brick Wall card kit (for N scale) is a typical example of those & similar walls seen all around the UK. This preprinted version of the KX006-N has been upgraded to a laser pre-cut version, with laser Cut Card Base Layers, which makes construction quicker & easier. The kit features recessed brick panels & is ideal for use as a perimeter wall around a factory, along the side of a railway track as it passes through residential areas, schools, churches, and more. The kit is very easy to assemble and uses high resolution, pre-weathered texture wraps over a series of 500gsm card layers which leaves no unsightly cut card edges visible when construction is complete.

We’ll now look at the kit contents & how to build it.

The kit comes in our bio-degradable clear cellophane packet, complete with an instruction sheet, Laser Cut Base Layer, & photo-realistic texture wraps. The photos right & below show the kit contents.

 

Tools Needed:

  • Cutting mat
  • Steel ruler (for cutting against)
  • Tweezers
  • Craft knife with a new sharp blade
  • Glue (Such as Roket Card Glue, Glue Stick for example)
  • Scissors
  • Our SX002 Corner Jig Tool

 

The Build

Start by cutting & releasing the inner wall base layer part A from the parts sheet, as highlighted in the photo right. Lightly sand flush any pips on the parts side using a sanding stick or similar. 

 

The base layer strips, after cutting them free from the base layer parts sheet, but them to one side.

 

Next, is the texture wrap baselayer part A’s, highlighted in the photo opposite right. Cut & remove these from the texture wrap sheet.

Use a craft knife with a new sharp blade to cut the texture wrap parts ‘A’ free from the texture wrap sheet. For straight cuts, use a steel ruler to cut against, the steel ruler acts as a cutting guide.

The wraps now need to be glued on to the base layers. This will form the inner layer of the wall which contains the recessed brickwork.

Apply glue to the rear non printed side of the texture wrap. Here we’re using a Glue Stick (Similar to Pritt Stick) from Wilko’s own brand range. It’s cheaper than Pritt Stick but just as good. Tip here to save getting glue on your cutting mat, is to place the clear cellophane packet that the kit come in, on to your cutting mat. This will protect your cutting mat from getting all covered in glue. Then a apply the glue to the rear nonprinted side of the texture sheet.

Now place the glued texture onto the base layer strip. Make sure that all the edges of the texture wrap line up & are flush with the edges of the base layer.

Continue to glue the texture wrap layer part ‘A’ on to each of the remaining baselayers as shown in the photo opposite right. So each base layer has one wrap glued to one side of it.

Next, cut the remaining texture wrap part ‘A’s out from the texture wrap sheet, again using the craft knife & steel rule as mentioned above earlier.

Next, as before, glue & stick the wraps to the other side of the base layer, so that each base layer has a wrap layer on both sides of it. Again make sure the edges of the wrap are flush with the edges of the base layer.

Now we move on to the front wall facings. You’ll see highlighted in the photo opposite right, a black cross on the white sections of the wall. These X’s are the cut line marks to create four glue flaps.

Using a sharp craft knife, carefully cut along each of the black ‘X’s. We’ve highlighted the Black ‘X’ cut lines in orange for you, in the photo opposite right.

Now cut out as before using steel ruler as a cutting guide edge & sharp craft knife, the front wall wraps.

Next, we need the baselayer front wall sections (highlighted in the orange box right). Before cutting & removing these front wall baselayer sections, the small rectangles (highlighted with the orange X’s) will need too be cut & removed.

Care fulling cut each of the four pips that hold the blank in each hole, to remove the blank piece. The blank piece isn’t needed, so they could be recycled as a wagon or truckloads for your layout.

Cut & remove the front wall base layers from the parts sheet.

Apply glue to the non-printed side of the front wall wraps. Use a glue stick or similar to do this.

Carefully place the glued wrap on to the front wall base layer as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure that the edges of the wrap are flush & square with the edges of the baselayer. Also, make sure the cut ‘X’s are aligned up with each hole in the base layer (as highlighted in the photo opposite right). There may be a little excess of the wrap overhanging at one end, as you can see in this photo on the right-hand end of the base layer. Simply cut/trim the excess overhanging wrap off if needed.

Using the rear blunt edge of the craft knife, lightly score along the inside edge of the recess hole as shown in the photo opposite right. This will give a crisp fold line. Glue & fold down the four triangle flaps as indicated by the orange arrows in the photo opposite right.

Repeat the process above until all the flaps have been scored, glued & folded & stuck down, as shown in the photo opposite right.

With the front wall sections now wrapped, it’s time to glue them into place on to the rear wall section.

Apply glue to the rear wall section & stick it into place upon the rear wall section as shown in the photo opposite right. Notice that the wall is more weathered at the top than at the bottom. The more weathered edge goes towards the top.

Turn the wall around & repeat the process, & glue & fix the front wall to the other side. Make sure that the top weathered bit goes to the top of the wall & thus match the other side of the wall with the weathering.

Repeat the process of gluing & fixing into place the outer front walls on to either side of the inner wall sections, as shown in the two photos opposite right. Each wall section now consists of 4 layers which make it very rigid. 

To join the wall sections up we now need the wall pillars which will hide the joints on each of the wall end sections. Cut & remove the highlighted pillar base layer sections in the orange box. Also cut & remove the pillar wrap strips from the texture wrap sheet. As shown in the two photos opposit right.

On the pillar strips, there are vertical black cut mark lines, highlighted in the photo opposite right. Cut along each of these vertical black cut lines to separate the pillar strips into the individual pillars.

Glue one pillar base layer centrally on to the non-printed side of pillar wraps as shown in the photo opposite right.

Use the rear blunt side of the craft knife blade, lightly score along each side of the edge of the base layer, as shown in the photo opposite right. Then glue & fold the remaining part of the wraps around the pillar base layer. 

Take the wrapped pillar & making sure the weathered top edge is at the top position to match the rest of the wall. Then glue it onto the end of the wall making sure that half the pillar overhangs over the end of the wall. As highlighted by the two orange lines in the photo opposite right.

Apply glue to the end of the wall, & also on the rear side of the pillar overhang. Then butt up the next wall section to the glued end on the first wall as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure that the pillar sits flat against the second wall. 

Turn the wall over & glue & fix into place another pillar over the wall end joints. As shown in the photo opposite right. The second photo opposite right shows the end wall joint with both wall pillars glued & fixed into place.

Repeat the process of gluing the pillars & other wall sections together to make the wall longer.

The next part of the build is the top capping stones. Cut & remove the capping stone strips from the laser cut baselayer parts sheet.

The top capping stop base layer can be painted and glued straight onto the wall as is or use the optional supplied coping stone texture wrap layer. Cut along the black cut lines on the coping stone wrap layer to create to separate into long strips.

Glue the top capping stone strip & stick it centrally on to the center of the nonprinted side of the capping stone wrap.

Glue & fix down the remaining part s of the capping stone wrap around the base layer as shown in the photo opposite right.

Next glue the top capping stones into place along the top of the wall, as shown in the photo opposite right.

For the wall ends, glue & wrap a pillar wrap around the end wall, as shown in the photo opposite right. This concludes the building of this kit.

The kit can also be built as a single-sided wall for going up against a back scene. The method shown here is the double side wall build.

 

Happy modelling.

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