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Building The LX246-OO 20ft Shipping Container Site Offices Kit

Building The LX246-OO 20ft Shipping Container Site Offices Kit

LX246-OO 20ft Shipping Container Site Office Kit

Today for this next kit build article, we’ll take at one of the newer kits in the range the LX246-OO 20ft Shipping Container Site Office Kit. This kit makes for an idea kit for an evenings modelling or weekend modelling session. Ideal for your layout loco depots, bus & truck depots, factories & dock side insdustrial areas, building sites & much more!

The kit comes with pre-laser cut parts which helps speed the kit build up time. Included in the pack is a set of instructions, Kit Parts Map Sheet, & three sheets containing the actual laser cut kit parts. If building this kit with the window shutters open, save the clear plastic packaging that the kit comes in for use as the window glazing.

The photos below show the kit contents. 

Tools required

What tools do I need? 

  • Cutting mat
  • Roket Card Glue or Super Phatic glue
  • Craft knife with a fresh sharp blade
  • Sanding stick (a cosmetic nail file will do)
  • Tweezers 

 

Lets get started…

Start off by cutting the pips that hold the base layer Parts A & B, to release them from the parts sheet. Lightly sand flush any pips on the sides of the parts.

Using the jig tool – which can be found here:

 https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/sx002-card-kit-assembly-jig-90-degrees-1869-p.asp

Place the two parts together to form a 90 degree right angle as shown in the photo right. The tabs on part A slot into the slots on part B. Run a bead of Roket Card glue along the inside of the joint as arrowed in the photo right.

Cut & remove part C from the parts sheet. As before, lightly sand any pips from the parts side.

Now fit & glue part C into place at one end as shown right. The slots & tabs will allow it to fit one way round only.

Cut & remove part D from the parts sheet. As before, lightly sand any pips from the parts side.

Now fit & glue part D into place at the other end as shown right. The slots & tabs will allow it to fit one way round only.

Cut & remove part E from the parts sheet. As before, lightly sand any pips from the parts side.

Now fit & glue part E into place as shown right. The slots & tabs will allow it to fit one way round only.

Cut & remove part F from the parts sheet. As before, lightly sand any pips from the parts side.

Run a bead of glue along the top edge as shown on the right.

Now place Part F onto the glued edge to form a box. NOTE: The door must go to the right hand side as shown in the photo. Make sure all the tabs sit flush in the slots.

If fitting the glazing, it’s best to fit the glazing to part F before gluing part F on to the box. Use the cellophane packaging that the kit comes in for the glazing for the window.

Now  cut & remove part G from the parts sheet. Sand flush any pips on the part sides.

Apply Roket Card glue or similar to the under side (non laser engraved side) of part G, & place on the top side of the box as shown on the right. Make sure that all the edges sit flush bar the tabs which will over hang the edges. The laser engraved side of part F must face upwards.

Now cut & remove parts H & I from the parts sheet. Sand flush any pips on the part sides. Parts H & I are the two long sides to the container.

Apply Roket Card glue or similar to the under side (non laser engraved side) of part I (The side containing the door & window), & place on the side of the box as shown on the right. Make sure that all the edges sit flush bar the tabs which will over hang the edges. The tab/slots must sit flush as circled in orange in the photo right. The laser engraved side of part I must face upwards.

We are leaving the door in place as well as the shutters on the window which are in the closed position. These however can modelled with them open, the choice is yours.

Repeat the process by gluing part H into place on the opposite side to part I. Again, make sure that the laser engraved side faces outwards & that all the edges, slots & tabs are flush.

Cut & remove parts J & K the container end panels. Light sand flush any pips on the parts edges.

Now glue the end panels parts J & K into place as shown on the right. Make sure the laser engraved side faces outwards.

Now we turn our attention the container base sections. You’ll need the follow parts L, M & N. L & N are the two outer end sections, whilst part M is the central section.

Cut & remove these parts from the parts sheet. Lightly sand flush any pips from the part edges.

Now glue the end base part L into place as shown on the right. Make sure the laser engraved side faces outwards.

Now glue the other end base part N into place as shown on the right. Make sure the laser engraved side faces outwards.

Now glue the other end base part N into place as shown on the right. Make sure the laser engraved side faces outwards.

This concludes the build of the container with the door & window shutters closed (Bar the fitting of the door handle). Now repeat the build of the other container, however as you’ll see, we’ll now show you how to do the open door & window shutters option.

The open door/window option

Cut out from the clear cellophane packaging the kit comes in, a suitable sized piece to fit the window. Cut the piece bigger so that it gives you a larger area for gluing. 

Part F, place it face down with the window to the right hand side. Run a bead of glue around the window opening as shown right.

Next, place the glazing piece on to the glued area around the window as shown right.

Assemble the container core as discribed earlier above. With the side part I containing the door & window shutters, carefully cut & release the door & window shutters from part I.

Apply a bead of glue between the arrows as shown on the right.

Carefully place the shutters as shown on the right. Make sure the shutters are flush up to the window frame edge.

Next run a bead of glue along the left hand side edge of the door frame, as arrowed in the photo on the right.

Place the door onto the glued section to the angle you require.

Cut & remove the door handle from the parts sheet (paint if you so wish before fitting). Then glue the handle on to the door as shown on the second photo right.

The stairs

Now we move on to the last part of the build, the stairs. Cut & remove parts O & P the stair stringers from the parts sheet. You now have an option to build these as left handed or as right handed.

Cut & carefully remove the steps (parts Q) & also the top platform (Part R) from the parts sheet.

On parts sheet one, you’ll see Justin has provided two slots. These are a jig tool for the assembly of the stairs & hold the two stair stringers in the correct place for fitting the steps. If you’re building a right-handed staircase as we are doing for this article, place the stair stringers as shown on the right. For a left-handed staircase place stringer into the left-hand slot.

Tip

Place the sheet one at the edge of your work bench. This will allow part O to overhang the work bench & keep it level within the jig tool.

This next bit use tweezers to place the step treads into place. Apply a small amount of glue to side edges of the step treads. To begin, place one step tread at the top & one at the bottom. As shown on the right, this will help keep the side stair stringers in position for the fitting of the step treads. 

Place two step treads in two of the middle positions, then proceed to glue & fit the rest of the step treads. As shown in the second photo on the right.

Now fit & glue (glue on the underside) the top platform part R in place on to the top of the stairs, as shown on the right.

Carefully cut & remove parts S (Barrier) & T (Stair leg supports) from the parts sheet.

Place the legs part T safely to one side. Now glue & fit the end barrier part S into place as shown on the right.

Cut & remove the following marked parts free from parts sheet three. Lightly sand flush any pips on gthe part edges.

On the side that will be nearest to the container, glue & fix into place the shorter long section (the one with the short tab at one end) on the side of the stringer. As shown on the right.

Moving over to side of the stairs that is furthest away from the container, glue & fix into place the longer piece as shown on the right. Make sure it sits flush & square. 

Now glue onr of the shorter covers on to the end of the top platform as shown on the right. 

Then move on to gluing & fixing in place the last short section as shown on the right. This concludes the fitting of the stringer & top platform covers.

The legs are the last item to fitted to the stairs. Glue part T the legs on to the stairs as shown on the right. Make sure the leg bottoms are at the same level as the foot of the stairs.

Once the glue has dried, paint the steps using spray acrylics paint colour of your choice.

Now paint the containers using spray acrylics paint. You can now either glue the containers together as a stack of two or leave them loose so they can be used as wagon/truck loads etc.

You could add further detailing as some of our customers have already done, such as interior details & lighting using our office furniture & lighting kits.

 

Happy modelling. 

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