Scale Model Scenery Kit Builds Guides – AX145-OO-A & AX145-OO-B Stacked 40ft Low Relief Shipping Containers
Scale Model Scenery Kit Builds Guides
AX145-OO-A & AX145-OO-B Stacked 40ft Low Relief Shipping Containers – OO/4mm/1:76
In this Scale Model Scenery Kits Build Guide, we take a look at another of our recently released kits/items, AX145-OO-A & AX145-OO-B. This low relief container kit is idea for adding a low relief backscene to your container depots, freight yards, factor yards, dockside scenes. The kit is suitable for a short modelling session, with it being a very quick build. Makes a great addition to any modern image layout.
The kit comes in two options which are as follows:
- Pack A with CMA/CMG, Hapag-Lloyd containers.
- Pack B with DHL & Maersk containers.
We’ll now look at the assembly of this kit.
The kit comes supplied in our standard bio-degradable cellophane packets (ideal for use as clear glazing for model windows). A set of instructions, two laser-cut baselayers, & the photo-realistic texture sheet with the container stack. The photos opposite right & below show the kit contents. Please note, the photo-realistic texture wrap shown here features the container stack from the B pack.
- Cutting mat
- Craft knife with new blade (don’t use a blunt blade)
- Glue stick like Pritt Stick or Similar
- Steel ruler
- Deluxe Materials Laser Cut Kit Glue
- Optional: Our SX002 Corner Jig Tool
Release the two laser-cut base layers from the parts sheets, by cutting through the pips that hold the base layers to the parts sheet frame.
Next, take one of the baselayers & place it on a corner jig tool, such as our SX002 corner jig tool. Butt the base layer up to the jig tool sides as shown in the second photo opposite right.
Then place the second laser cut base layer onto the glued first laser-cut base layer, to create a stack of two. Make sure all edges are true flush & square.
Now take the texture wrap layer & hold it up to a window with the printed side facing against a window. The daylight through the window will make the printed side appear on the non-printed side of the sheet. With a pen or pencil, mark off each of the corners of the containers on the non-printed side of the sheet.
The pen/pencil markers will be our guide markers for scoring fold lines.
Place the texture wrap sheet printed face down onto the cutting mat. Place a steel ruler onto the non-printed side of the sheet & align it with the pen/pencil marks. As shown in the photo opposite right. We’ll now score a line between the two pen/pencil marks, as highlighted in the photo opposite.
Use the rear blunt edge of the craft knife, to score a line without cutting through the sheet. Use the steel ruler to score against to get a straight scored fold line.
Repeat the process again, to score the remaining fold lines. We’ve highlighted the score fold lines in orange on the sheet as shown in the photo opposite right.
For best results, use a craft knife with a sharp blade. Also, use a steel ruler to cut against to act as a guide for cutting straight cuts. Carefully cut out the texture wrap.
Using a glue stick such as Pritt Stick or similar, apply a thin even layer of glue onto one side of the base layer stack.
Place the base layer glued side down, centrally on to the non-printed side of the texture wrap. As shown in the photo opposite right.
Next, apply glue to the rear non-printed side of the small flaps. Highlighted in the photo opposite right.
On one of the two sides with the small flaps, apply glue to the non-printed side of the flap as shown in the photo opposite right. Then proceed to fold & stick down the flap onto the baselayer.
Again, repeat the process of gluing & sticking down the remaining two flaps, as shown in the photo opposite right.
That completes the assembly of this kit. You can if you so wish, apply a mat varnish (such as those by Humbrol or Testors for example) or printer fixative spray over the printed texture wraps, to protect them from UV light.
Then glue the lower relief stacks onto your backscene. Alternatively use Taxy Wax or Blue Tak to hold them against a back scene, if needing them to be removable. Here you can see both versions of the kit on a railport scene.
This concludes this kit build.